AN
UPDATE ON THE WORK OF TIMOTHY PONT
Timothy Pont and his brother
Zachary were the sons of the Rev. Robert Pont minister of the west Church of
Edinburgh, both studied for the ministry, and both graduated as M.As in 1584.
Timothy was appointed minister of the parish of Dunnett in the county of
Caithness in the year 1600, but it appears that he spent very little of his time
on pastural duties as he was soon deeply involved in his survey of Scotland.
Timothy and Zachary spent most of the remainder of their lives, travelling the
length and breadth of Scotland Topographizing the Land of the Scots. Travelling,
mainly by foot they covered the mainland and the islands, suffering much
hardship and often becoming the victims of robbers and bandits. The survey was
spent on taking notes, making sketches and above all meeting and talking to the
people of the localities they visited. They achieved what no one had done
before, a full survey of life as it was during the early part of the seventeenth
century.
There is no record of
Pont’s death nor do we know where he is buried, but we do know that he died
prior to 1648. The heirs to whom Pont left his papers, were ignorant of their
importance and neglected them, and but for the intervention of King James VI of
Scotland who gave instruction that they be purchased from Pont’s executors
they may have been lost or destroyed.
Ponts account of Cunninghame
remained unknown to the public for many years, and indeed the original
manuscript has long since disappeared, but a copy in the handwriting of Sir
James Balfour was kept in the Advocates’ Library, and it was from those papers
that Mr. Dobie of Crummock in 1858, prepared the manuscript we refer to as
Cunninghame Topographized by Timothy Pont A.M. dated 1604 - 1608.
The updating of the survey of Timothy Pont
has been confined to the Kilwinning area of Cunninghame. The places and
properties visited by Pont during his surve are listed in alphabetical order and
by the names and spelling used during the period of the survey. They appear in
this order in the book:-ACH INME DDS
ACHINTYBERS
ASSHINZAIRDES
BORROWLAND
BENSLIE
DALGARUAN
DUBBS
DAWRA
EGLINTOUNE
FERGUSHILL
KILWINNEN
KLONBYITH
LUGTON
LHUNFARD
MONCASTLE
POTTERTOUNE
STEINESTONE
The parish boundary runs
like this. From Ashgrove Loch it follows Penny Burn south to the Garnock, east
along the river to the Red burn, further east along the Red Burn to Littlestane,
then it runs north to Doura, northeast to Torranyard, north then west to take
in Montgreenan, it then follows the Lugton Water northeast up to Achintiber,
southwest to Achinmade, south through Dykeneuk Moss, then southwest to
Woodgreen, following the Rough burn north up the Garnock, taking in Dalgarven,
west at the Caaf Water, then south, taking in Monkcastle and Smithstone,
eventually ending back at Ashgrove Loch.
ACHINMEDDS
Achadh-na-maid,
the field of
sticks, or timber: or Madadh a dog, wolf, or fox. Both names, or portions of
the name, are sufficiently descriptive of the locality. Present appearances
indicate that the property was at one time covered with wood, when it must have
formed a pretty safe retreat for such animals. It is situated in the northern
part of the parish of Kilwinning, and consists of nearly 900 scres, of which a
third part is moss. It is now held by six different proprietors, and seems, even
before the days of the Topographer, to have been divided among several owners.
On 28th July, 1632, John Gemmill is served heir—male to John Gemmill, his
grandfather, in two l3s 4d. land of old extent of Auchinmaid. On 28th November,
1638, James Mure is served heir of James Mure, his father, in the 5s. land of
Uttermuir of Auchinmaid. On 16th November, 1642, Hugh Mure is served heir of
John Mure, his grandfather, in the 5s. land of Uttermuir of Auchinmaid, with the
teinds, &c. The names “Auchinmaid, Uttermuir de Auchinmaid, are included
in the retour of Hugh Earl of Eglinton, as heir of Earl Alexander his father,
7th May, 1661. On 27th November, 1672, Euphemia Gemmill is served heir of Andrew
Gemmill, her father, in the 13s 4d land of Auchinmaid. On 3rd June, 1674, Ann
Campbell is served heir portioner of William Hamilton of Dalserf, her maternal
grandfather, in the lOs. land of Little Auchinmaid, alais Uttermuir, with the
teinds.
(1874
The present proprietors of the Auchinmades are the Earl of Eglinton and
Wintoun, Capt. W.J. Smith Neil of Swinridgemuir, Trustees of Dr. James Allen,
James Shanks, and heirs of Alexander Houston. They occur on the Map as “Achinmerd,”
“Moble Achimed, and Achimed litle.”)
(1989
South Auchenmade is a working farm, as is MidAuchenmade which has a
cottage, Ash Neuk, opposite it.)
ACHINTYBERS
Achin
being ane Inch vord fignifies a folde or crofte of land gained out of a vyld
ground of befor vnmanured, and TYBERS or TAUBYRR as some thinke a well doeth
make ye name Achintybers to expresse a vell—folde or a fold quher in a wel spring
is. it is ye hertage of ye Eanlles of Cassills.
On
the same date John Dene is retoured heir of his father John, in the 2Os. land of
over Auchintiber for 41 stone of cheese (petrie casei). John Deyn of
Auchintiber, and John Deyn of over Auchintiber, occur in Brown’s Protocol Buik,
in 1620. On 4th October, 1671, Janet & Agnes Murchland, are retoured heirs
portionei~s of their grandfather, John Murchland in Craven Mime, in a part of
the 4Os. land of old extent of Nether Auchentiber.
(1874
Auchentybers, Fulwood, and Gabrochhill, in the parish of Stewanton, are
stated by Robertson (Cun. p324) to have been contained in a charter to Gilbert,
first Lord Kennedy, dated in 1452. Nothing further has been discovered of their
connection with the Kennedys, nor of their history for many years subsequent to
that date. In a Precept of Clare Constat, dated 18th March, 1616, by Alexander
Earl of Eglinton to Sir Neil Montgomenie of Lainshaw, are included the lands and
barony of Peacockbank, of old called the barony of Balgray, containing Fullwoods,
GalbrochHills, Auchentibers, &c., &c. (Rob. Ayrs, Fain. vol. iii. p.
187). In 1734 they appear, in superiority, as a ten merk land of old extent,
part of the Earldom of Eglintoun (Sums. Red & Eglinton v Hamilton, &c).
Achintybers became part of the Estate of Dunlop. Neither Auchintyber was held
from Dunlop of that Ilk by Robert Fergushill in 1660. Alexander Fergushill,
portioner of Auchentyber, is a witness to a Disposition by Alexander Dunlop of
Dunlop, of Townhead of Fulwood, to James Fergushill in 1687.
John
Ferguson of Nether Auchintyber acquired Over Auchintyber in 1731 from
The
Kilwinning Auchtentibers are noted in a valuation of that parish in
Both
properties occur on the Map with a slight variation in orthography, viz, as
“Achyntybers” and “Achentybry”)
ASHGROVE
AsshinZairdes
belongs to one Alexander Cuninghame. The name is derived from esch, aish, ash
tree; and yaird, an indefinite measure of land. It might be then descriptive of
an enclosure abounding with ash trees.
This
property lies in the parish of Kilwinning. The Cuninghames of Asshin—zairds
were a branch of the Cuninghames of Craigends, an acknowledged early cadet of
the noble family of Glencairn. An account of the family is given by Robertson,
vol. i, p. 262, which, however, is somewhat defective. The property remained in
the family from 1570 until 1712, when it was acquired by Andrew Martin from his
father~in.zlaw, William Cuninghame. During the minority of the son of Andrew
Martin the estate was sold judicially, and purchased by John Bowman, Lord
Provost of Glasgow, who was decsended maternally from the family of Cuninghame.
(1874
Margaret Anne Bowman died, unmarried, in 1859, and was succeeded by Andrew
FitzJames Cuninghame Polio Bowman Ballantyne of Ashgrove and Castlehili, son
of Elizabeth Ballantyne, her youngest sister and her husband, the Hon. Roger
Polio. He is married and has issue. It occurs on the Map as “Aschirya”).
(1989
Ashgrove House was originally meant to be a suite of offices but was changed
to a residence. The estate was broken up this century and the farmland sold off.
The house was demolished in 1960 with its last tenant being Mr J. Ballintine.
The walled garden still stands).
This property lies in the parish of
Kilwinning. Robert Broune of Borrowland is witness in the testiment of a tenant
in Blacksych, Kilwinning, 10th January, 1628 - 1629. He died in October, 1630,
and his testiment, which is confirmed, 26th July, 1631, is given up by Janet
Couper, his relict, and by Jeane Broune, ane of the defunctis lawful dochteris,
and the said Jeane for herself, and in name and behalf of Cristian Broune, the
uther dochter, and executrixes dative. Among his debts occur “Item thair
was awand be defunct to my Lord of Eglintoun of feudutie for the lands of Nether
Maynes Crop 1630 v. 16., xij.s., vjd. Item to Kathreen Hunter and Robert
Cuningham of Drummilling, hir spouse, for the tak deutie of hir lyierent landes
of Nether Manes four bollis meill, twa bollis beer of the crop 1630” (Coin.
Rec.) Jeane Broune married Alexander Blair of Giffordland, and had two sons,
Alexander, who succeeded to Giffordland, and John, who aquired Borrowland.
Robert
Broune of Borrowland was succeeded, in the lands of Nether Maynes, by his son
James, who was served heir, on 6th May, 1640; and it appears that John Blair
succeeded to Borrowland in the manner stated in Robertson’s Cuninghame, p.221.
James Blair, son of Jean Blair, heiress of these lands, and Miller, her
husband, died in 1815; and never having been married, left his property of
Borrowland to Robert Hyndman of Springside by special deatination. He was
succeeded by his son John Blair Hyndman, W.S., who died, in 1843, unmarried. His
eldest sis.ter Elizabeth, succeeded and died unmarried in 1849, and was
succeeded by her cousin Henry C. Hyndman, who is now proprietor of Borrowland.
(1874
Robert Broune of Borrowland is infeft in sundry portions of the lands of new
extent of Nether Mains of Kilwinning, 31st January, 1616. He is a witness to the
infeftment of Alexander Cunynghame, younger of Corsehill, by his father,
Alexander, in the 30s. land of Pottertoun, in the parish of Kilwinning, 7th
June, 1617. And again in an infeftment on 18th June, 1618.
Henry
C. Hyndman sold Borrowland in 1856 to the late Mr Robertson Glasgow of
Montgreenan, and it now forms part of that estate. It appears on the Map as
“Burru land”).
(1989 Borrowland today is a farm situated beside the Lugton Water on the edge of
Montgreenan estate and access is gained from the 8785 and the 8778).
DALGARUAN belongs to Johne Montgomerie
This
property, in the parish of Kilwinning, was a 5 merk land of old extent and
belonged to the monastery of Kilwinning. It seems to have been disposed of by
grant, as it is included in the retour of James, Earl of Abercorn, as heir of
his grandfather, Claud, Lord of Paisley, 3rd May, 1621. On 29th November, 1648,
it appears in the retour of James, Duke of Hamilton, as heir of James, Duke of
Castellerotie (Chatelherault) Earl of Arran, his great grandfather. It is
included in the retour of Hugh, Earl of Eglintoun, as heir of Alexander, Earl of
Eglintoun, his father, 7th May, 1661, and again on 4th June, 1673, in the
retour of Anne, Duchess of Hamilton, as heir portioner of her father, James,
Duke of Hamilton. On 27th August, in the same year, Susanna Cuming is retoured
heir of her mother, Susannah Cochrane, wife of Robert Cuming, merchant in
Irvine, in an annual payment of £32 furth of the 8s. land of Dalgarven in
Kilwinning. On 25th February, 1687, David Boyle of Kelburne, is retoured heir
male of John Boyle of Kelburne, his father, in part of the five pound land of
Dalgarven.
(1989
Dalgarven used to be a weaving center with its own school and population of
about 200. Today there are a few cottages and Dalgarven House public house. The
mill, however, has been renovated by a M.S.C. project to become a working
museum. It is owned by Robert Ferguson and opened to the public in 1987. As well
as grinding grain for baking the mill houses costume and farming history
sections and a tea room).
DUBBS
ye possefione of Alexander Parck
This
is a small property in the parish of Kilwinning. It belonged for some time to a
family of the name of Park. John Park of Dubbs, on 22nd January, 1673, is
retoured heir of his grandfather, Alexander Park, in the 26s 8d. land of old
extent of Dubbs, and us land of new extent of Corsehill, Kilwinning, “cum
parvula domo adjacente”. John Park of Dubbs occurs in the testiment of Isabel
Chalmers, November, 1623 confirmed March 13th, 1624. The property now
belongs to John Crichton of Linn.
(1989
Dubbs is now a residential house, with the land having been sold of f
to Tod Hill farm).
There
are various places of this name in the County. The place referred to be Pont is
2Os. land of Dawray, in the parish of Kilwinning, which was the property of
Cuninghame of Montgreenan. On 24th October, 1629, John Dotchitoun (vel.
Dotchiestoun) is retoured heir of his father, Gilbert, in the 2Os. land of
Dowray, in the parish of Kilwinning, and on the 13th April, 1658, John Dotcheoun
is retoured heir of his father, John, in these lands. The more valuable property
of Dowra and Patterton forms part of the estate of Corsehill, belonging to Sir
Thomas Montgomerie Cuninghame of Corsehill, Baronet.
(1874 Dowra has for many years been a “household word” in the district,
producing coal of excellent quality. It has a miners~ village, with a population
of 350. Sir William James Montgomerie Cuninghame, of Corsehill and Kirktonholm,
Baronet, M.P., succeeded in 1870 (see Arts. “Crossehill” and Pottertoune”).)
(1989
Little remains at Doura, the miners row having been demolished in
1937,
but a public house The Millburn Lounge Bar & Restaurant has
EGLINTOUNE
A
fair and ftronge ancient houss vich gifs the tytill of earle to ye cheiffe of ye
Montgomeries quho ar Earls of Eglintoune. it is seatted and vattred by the Riuer
Lugdurr and veill planted and beutified with Gardens orchards and parkes.
The Eglintouns of that Ilk were a family of great antiquity and held their lands of the De Morvilles. Sir Ralph de Eglintoun was one of those who swore loyalty to Edward in 1296. Sir Hugh de Eglintoun was Justiciary of Lothian and one of the Commissioners for a treaty with England, 1st September, 1361. He married Egidia, sister of King Robert II, relict of Sir James Lindsay of Crawfurd, and had a charter from John de Moeavia to him and Lady Egidia of the lands of Hormishaw, Dollywra, Pocertoun, and Bagraw, dated at Ardrossan, the day before the feast of the purification of the blessed Virgin Mary, 1st February, 1361 - 1362. Soon after the accession of his brotherinlaw, King Robert, to the throne, his Majesty granted to Sir Hugh the lands of Giffeyn, in the parish of Beith, by charter, dated 4th May, 1371, and of Alliston, in the barony of Kilbryde, in Lanarkshire, both of which estates were in the King’s hands by forfeiture, but of whom it is not recorded. Sir Hugh had charters from the King of many other extensive and valuable possessions, which are enumerated in Douglas’ Peerage, vol I, p. 493.
Previously to this, the barony of Ardrossan belonged to the ancient family of Barclay, had been brought into the family of Eglintoun by the marriage of the only daughter and heiress of Godfrey of Ardrossan (see the Art. “Ardrossen Castell”). Sir Hugh Eglintoun died soon after 1376, leaving an only child, Elizabeth, who married John de Montgomerie of Eglesham, and carried with her into his family the Lordships of Eglintoun and Ardrossan, besides the lands of Lochlibofyde, Bonington, Nortoun, and other valuable estates. In consequence of this marriage, John Montgomerie quarted the arms of Eglintoun with his own, as the shield continues to bear witness.
The Montgomeries of Eglesham were also of high antiquity, and were of Norman origin. Roger de Montgomerie being nearly allied to William the Conqueror, accompanied him in the invasion of England, commanded the van of the Norman army at the decisive battle of Hastings in 1066, and was afterwards munificently rewarded for his valour. The first of the name that settled in Scotland was Robert de Montgomerie, who accompanied Walter the High Steward from Wales, and obtained from him the manor of Eglesham, in the barony of Renfrew. Walter the High Steward, founded the mpnastery of Paisley, circa. 1163, and soon afterwards granted several endowments in his favour. To two of these Robert de Mundigrumbi is a witness, but not to the foundation charter, as stated by Crawfurd and Douglas. His successor, Sir Alexander de Montgomerie of Ardrossan, was, prior to 1448, by James II, raised to the Peerage by the title of Lord Montgomerie. He married Margaret, second daughter of Sir Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock. His grandson Hugh, third Lord Montgomerie, was in 1507, by James IV, created Earl of Eglinton.
The succession continues unbroken until the time of Hugh, fifth Earl, who married his cousin german, Margaret, daughter of Robert Montgomerie of Giffen, but having no issue, he settled the Earldom and his great estates thereto attached on Sir Alexander Seton of Foulstruther, third son of his aunt, Lady Margaret Montgomerie, first countess of Winton, and the “malkless Margaret” of the Author of “The Cherry and the Slae” (see Art.”Hassilhead Castle”). On the death of the earl, Sir Alexander Seton succeeded to the honours and estates, which were all confirmed to him by James VI, in 1615, and thus became sixth Earl of Eglintoun. His Lordship was known by the popular appellation of “Graysteel” being a bold, energetic character, and well known for the active part he took in public affairs during the reign of Charles I. His lineal descendant, Archibald William, 13th Earl of Eglintoun, is now in possession of the Earldom and estates. In 1806, Hugh, 12th Earl was by the Whig administration then in power, elevated to the rank of a British Peer by the title of Baron Ardrossan, and in 1841, Archibald William the present Earl, was served heir male general and heir male of provision to George, the fourth Earl of Winton, Lord Seaton and Tranent.
His Lordship has gained high reputation by his love of his
country, his earnest desire to promote the welfare of the community, and his
taste and patronage of the arts and sciences. During the administration of the
Earl of Derby in 1852, he held the responsible office of Lord Lieutenant of
Ireland, the important duties of which he discharged with much ability and tact,
and to the universal approbation of the country. In 1841 he married Theresa,
daughter of Charles Newcomen and widow of Richard Howe cockerel of Calcutta, and
has issue, 1, Archibald William, Lord Montgomerie, 2, Lady Egidia, who bears the
name of her royal ancestress, the sister of King Robert II, and spouse of Sir
Hugh de Eglintoun in 1361, 3, Hon. Seton Montolieu, 4, Hon. George Arnulph.
(1874 In 1858, the Earl married, secondly Lady Adela Caroline Harriett
Capel, daughter of Arthur Algernon, 6th earl of Essex, and had issue Lady
Sybil Amelia Adela, and Lady Hylda Rose.
A
full length colossal statue in bronze was erected in 1865, in front of the
county Buildings in Wellington Square, Ayr, on a pedestal of granite, bearing
the following inscription:- “In Memory of Archibald William, Earl of
Eglintoun and Wintoun, P.C., K.T., K.P., Lord Lieutenant of Ayrshire,
1843-1861; Lord Rector of Glasgow University, 1852 - 1853; and Lord
Lieutenant of Ireland, 1852 and 1859-1890. Born 29th September, 1812; Died
4th October, 1861. This statue was erected by a public subscription, of all
ranks and classes, in testimony of admiration for his public character, of
affectionate remembrance of his private virtues, and of universal regret for the
loss occasioned to his friends and to his country by his too early death”.
He
was succeeded by his eldest son Archibald William, Lord Montgomerie, the present
Earl of Eglintoun and Wintoun, who married in 1862 Lady Sophia Theodosia,
daughter of Charles Anderson Worsley, 2nd Earl of Yarborough, and has issue,
Lady Soffie Constance, Lady Theresa, and Lady Gertrude.)
(1989 In 1878 the city of Glasgow Bank crashed. This was one of the events which
led to the demise of the Montgomerie s fortunes since the 14th earl of a holder
of capital stock. In 1925 the contents were auctioned and the roof removed later
to avoid paying taxes on the property. The family had by this time removed to
Skelmorlie Castle.
In
1939 the estate was purchased by the War Department for a training area.
Unfortunately one of their dynamite training courses were held at the castle and
it suffered the same fate as Brisbane House in Largs. In 1953 the Adam designed stable block was turned into a food factory by Clement Wilson. He
re—landscaped the grounds and gifted them to CDC in 1978. IDC have since
renovated part of the outhouses as an information center and a workshop for the
Park Rangers. Nature trails now abound in the park for the public to stroll
through).
FERGUSHILL
ye habitatione of Robert Fergushill de eodem chieffe of hes name ane honest and
defcreit gentleman
This property, which, when entire, must have formed a valuable small estate, lies in the parish of Kilwinning. It belonged for several centuries to the Fergushills, who, probably, were vassals of the De Morvilles. The first notice which has been found of them is of Robert Fergushill de eodem, who is one of the Jury in the inquest at Irvine in 1417, before Robert, Duke of Albany, in the question between Francis of Stane and the Burgh. On 13th August, 1488, “Robert of Fergushill of yat Ilk, and Johne “of Fergushill, with Johne of Montgumry, brother to the Lord of Montgumry and “Johne of Montgumry of Giffyn,” were witnesses to the execution at the market cross of Irvine, of the summons for High Treason against John de Ross of Montgrenane, which was performed with due solemnity by “Carrik Pursewant and Sherif in yat part.” On 12th October 1596, Robert Fergushill is retoured heir of John Fergushill de eodem, his farther, probably, the second witness above named, in the merkland of Busbie Fergushill, and one merkland of Hangandheuch, of old extent in the bailiary of Conynghame; and in the 7 merk 6/8 land of Fergushill, in the lordship of Eglintoun. This Robert must have been the “honest and descreit gentleman” of the Topographer, and as this is the only personal compliment paid by him, it is pleasing to conjecture that it was occasioned by the hospitable reception he had received from the Laird of Fergushill during his interesting tour a proper example for a “good old country gentleman.” He married Elizabeth, daughter of John Craufurd of Craufurdland, and was succeeded by his son Robert, who on the 18th August 1625 is retoured heir of his father Robert, in the 7 merk 6 shilling and 8 penny land of Fergushill.
He married
Mariot Porterfield and gave her life rent infeftment in his mansion house and
the lands of Auchintiber, 8th February 1635. “Robert Fergushill of that Ilk”
is one of the sub-commissioners for valuing the tends of Cuninghame, and is
present at meetings in 1629. He occurs in the testament of James Hamilton, of
Aikenhead in October, 1633, and Jean Porterfield, relict of Robert Hamilton of
Torrance, bequeaths at her death (December 1658) one hundreth markis in legacy
to Jean Fergushill, dochter to the lait laird of Fergushill Testament
confirmed 7th February, 1659. Soon afterwards the estate was sold to Alexander
Craufurd, second son of John Craufurd of Craufurdland, by Janet, daughter of
Cuninghame of Craigends, whose eldest son John married Anna, daughter of Robert
Ker of Kersland. Vain of this connection, he assumed the name and title of John
Ker of Kersland, and being, apparently, void of fixed principles, he
tergiversated betwixt all the political parties of the times, spent his wife’s
estate, and died without friends, and unregretted, leaving a character which is
still looked upon without respect. In 1718 he dispensed Fergushill to John
Asgill, of Rose Castle, in the County of Kerry, and Robert Halket of the city of
Dublin, the latter of whom, on 3rd August 1719, conveyed his interest in the
lands to Mr Asgill, who in March, 1728, sold the whole to Patrick McDowall of
Crichen.
He
was succeeded in 1735 by his son, Charles McDowall, advocate, who in 1791,
conveyed them to Colonel James Edmonstone of Newton, and William Mure of
Caldwell. In 1793, John James Edmonstone of Newton was served heir of his
father, Colonel Edmonstone, and in 1799 he and Mr Mure, conveyed the property to
Hugh, 12th Earl of Eglintoun, in whose grandson Archibald William, Earl of
Eglintoun and Wintoun, it is now vested. A good mansion, surrounded by some fine
old trees, render the place still worthy of being inhabited by “ane honest and
descreit gentleman The lands of Upper Fergushill were conveyed by Alexander
Craufurd to Agnes Kincaid, relict of James Craufurd, son of his second marriage
with Isabel Henderson, relict of Bryce Boyd of Pitcon. Agnes Kincaid conveyed to
her son, Dr. Thomas Craufurd, who, with consent of his mother, on 17th March
1728, sold these lands to Neil McVicar and Elizabeth Montgomury his spouse, in
whose family they remained until 1802, when Mrs Marjory Grierson, relict of Niel
McVicar, writer in Edinburgh, sold them to Robert Glasgow of Montgrenan, to
whose descendants they now belong.
(1874
— There is now a miner’s village called Fergushill containing a population
of 531. On the map the property occurs as “Feroushill”.)
(1989
— There is no more mining at Fergushill but the church is kept in good repair
although the old wooden village is in a sorry state.)
GARNOCK
FLUUIUS is a prettey riuer ouerpassed vith three bridges and zeildes plentey of
Salmons
The
source and direction of this river are thus described in the new Statistical
Account of the parish of Kilbirnie “The Garnock rises at the base of the Hill
of Staik,and traverses the district in the direction of southeast. About a
mile and a half from its source, it forms a wild and romantic waterfall called
the “Spout of Garnock” which after heavy rains, presents an animated
spectacle, strongly in contrast with the immobility and stillness of the
surrounding scenery. Nearly three miles farther down, it winds in melancholy
murmurings round two sides of the precipitous knoll, on which are perched the
tottering ruins of Glengarnock Castle. Descending thence for a short distance,
through a wooded ravine, it hastens over a rocky channel and after skirting the
village of Kilbirnie, quietly pours its accumulated waters through a strath of
much beauty, in the lower part of the parish. It then pursues its devious course
through the parishes of Dalry and Kilwinning and after being considerably
augmented by many tributary streams, falls into the sea at Irvine. Like other
mountain rivers, a heavy fall of rain renders in a short time the Garnock an
impassable torrent a little way from its source, while during the summer months,
it is frequently fordable at nearly all points within the parish of Kilbirnie.
Its banks are tame, presenting in their whole extent few charms to the admirer
of picturesque scenery, the immediate environs of Glengarnock Castle, and of the
waterfall, alone excepted. The right to the salmon fishing of this river from
the Rough burn, a mile north of the town of Kilwinning, to the Polgree water,
about half a mile below Kilbirnie Kirk, belongs to Blair of Blair, having been
granted to that family by the monastery of Kilwinning, to which it anciently
belonged.”
(1874
The steep sided glen of the Garnock which extends from the castle to the
“Spout”, though somewhat wanting in variety, has a wild beauty of its own,
and is broken by several pretty waterfalls. The celtic derivation of Garnock is
said to be from garbh cnoc, a rough—knoll, or from Caer cnoc, a fortified
hill. Caerwinning hill forms a prominent feature in the landscape of the valley
and has the remains of a very old fortification on its summit (see “Kaervinnen
Hill”). The same “Garnock fl.,” has been placed in the Map at the head of
Gritow water instead of its own source).
(1989
The river Garnock is a main feature of Kilwinning and is very popular in the
fishing season. In 1885 the Viaduct Bridge over the Garnock was constructed by
the Lanarkshire & Ayrshire Railway Co. In 1936 passenger traffic ceased but
goods traffic continued over the bridge in the early 1940’s. In 1950 a tree
was planted on an island in Garnock at Bridgend. The tree was a Metasequoia from
China which was brought from Kew Gardens.)
KILWINNEN
It
doeth beare ye name vinnen of a certaine holy man fo named wich came from Irland
with certane of hes difcipells and follouers, and heir taught ye Gospell, the
place of hes residence retaining ftill ye name Killvinnin (i) ye church or cell
of vinnen. unto quhome as to a notable fante the fuperftitious posterity
dedicatted. The fearching out of ye etomologie of this place may (as appeireth)
be evidently confirmed by the names of ye adiacent places to this day: as SuyInnen
yt is Vinins seat. Kaervininhill. St. Vinins velles fabled by the vulgar
credulous Comons to haue issewed of ye tears of this fant. It is affirmed yat ye
toune and place quher this Abbey of Kilwinin standes yes formerly named SEGDOUNE
as the foundatione of the said monastarey beares record. It wes foundit by a
Noble Englich man named Sir Richard Morwell fugitive from hes auen countrey for
ye flaughter of Thomas Becckett Archbifchope of Canterburrey (being one of them)
in the Rainge of King Henry 2nd of England quho flying to Scotland wes be the
then Scotts king velcomed and honoured with ye office of grate Constable of
Scotland as alfo inriched with ye Lordeschips of Cuninghame Largis and
Lauderdaill quhosse posterity for diuers generations possessed ye faid office
and lands. Nou the forfaid Richard being as vald feime tuoched vith compuctione
for ye fauety of hes foul (according to the custome of thesse tymes) did found
this Abbey of Killvinnin in testimoney of hes repentance, and first of all did
bulde ye Queir or Cancell of ye faid Abbey church endouirig it vith dioerss
lands as namely the 80Th Land of Kilvinnin after this tennor Damus forrestam
nostram de Kilvinin ibidem deo feruientibus ad pascendum porcos eorum et ad
exscindenda ligna ad constructionem Monasterii vna cum decimis tergorum tam
ceruorum quam damarum eiusdem forrestae. Also Auicea Loncaster vyffe to ye said
5’ Richard vith confent of her said husband dottes in puram et perpetuam
elimosinam the land of Bytth Batth and Threppe—wood to ye said Monafterey.
Item Dorothea de Morvill daughter to ye said 5’ Richard and vyffe to philippus
de Horssey accomplisched ye fabrick of ye faid Monasterey and hes sone Dominus
Valterus de Horssey confirms to them the fame, and the faid fundatione,with ye
donations and mortifications therto belonging is confirmed by pope Honorious the
2d pontificatus fui. Thesse donations and fundations are alfo confirmed
by K. Alexander the 3d. as alfo by JOCELINUS DEl GRATIA HUMILIS GLASGUENSIS
ECCLESIAE MINISTER AUTHORITATE EPISCOPALI &c.
The
Reueneus of this Abbay wer grate and maney by ther proper Lands. The founder
therof 5’ Richard Morwill layes interrid in the now cemetery of this church
vnder’ a tome of Lymestone framed coffin vayes of old polished worke with this
coate one the stone with (out) aney superscriptions or Epitaphe. The structure
of thes monasterey wes folid and grate all of free ftone cutte. The church faire
and ftaitly after ye mosell of yat of Glasgow with a fair fteeiple of 7 fcore
foote of height zet ftanding quhen I myselue did fee it. Heir wer alfo the Lords
Montgomery and Earls of Eglintone interrid. The riuer Garnock glyds betuixt ye
toune and Abbay ouer passed vith a faire ftone bridge. Heir it is remarkable yat
this Monasterey wes foundit in A0 1191 and destroyed in A0 1591 it is ye
precinct enuironed vith a faire stone vall, within vich ar goodly gardens
orchardes.
In
the Calendar of Scots Saints, the date assigned to St Winning is 715, and tha
his festival was celebrated on 21st January, on which day, 0.S., a fair is still
held in Kilwinning, and called St Winning’s Day. He is said to have been a
holy man, who came from Ireland with certain disciples and followers, and taught
the gospel at Kilwinning, which place retains his name, as the church or cell of
Winning. Several other places are said to derive their names from the same
source, as Suy. Innen (Southanan, Winnin’s Seat; Caer—winning Hill, or Fort
of Winning. It is said that St Winning’s Well was formed of tears that issued
from this holy man. There is a well still known by that name, which now contains
pure excellent water. The fountains, which had been blessed by St Winning,
continued in high repute, and one of them was believed to give warning of the
approach of war by flowing with blood on such occastions. Roger de Hoveden and
Benedictus Abbas, two ecclesiastical historians of good authority, relate a
portent of this kind as having occured in 1184, when “a fountain near
A recent occurrence tends to prove
the truth of the story and to vindicate the stubborn faith of the learned lord.
In 1826, when the square, or green, to the west of the Monastery was being
levelled, the workmen came upon an old leaden pipe, about an inch in diameter,
which ran from the wall of the building in the direction of a fine spring, now
called Kyles Well. This pipe had a considerable descent, and could not have been
used for the purpose of drawing water from the well to the abbey. Through it,
therefore, in all probability, blood, or some liquid resembling it had been
caused to flow into the fountain, and thus the credulity of the people was
imposed upon by the appearance of a miracle, which served to enhance the fame of
the monastery and the power of its priesthood.
This
turning of water into blood is not uncommon. “Alexander Ross, in his
“appendix to the Arcana Microcosmi, p. 220, tells us that Camerarius, out of
Dietmarius “and Erasmus Stella, writes of a certain fountain near the river
Alba or Elbe in Germany, which presageth wars by turning red and bloody coloured,
of another which portendeth death if the water which before was limpid, becomes
troubled and thick, so caused by an unknown worm. This brings to my remembrance,
a superstitious notion I have heard of in Northumberland, that when the Earl of
Derwentwater was beheaded, the brook that runs past his seat at Dilston Hall
flowed with blood”.
In
Law’s Memorials it is said to be reported credibly that “in the spring of
the year 1682, in the island Eilla (Islav) in the west seas, there was a bay in
that island that for several days the sea flowed in upon it “with water like
to blood in colour”. But in still more modern times something similar occured.
Under the article “Bristol” in Brewster’s Encyclo. vol iv., p. 559, there
is the following paragraph:- “We may mention a singular phenomenon which was
observed here on the 1st November, 1755, during the time of the terrible
earthquake at Lisbon. The water of the well became all of a sudden as red as
blood, and so turbid that it could not be drunk, and the tide of the Avon flowed
back contrary to its natural course. At the same time a similar phenomenon was
observed in the village of Kingswood, where the water of a common well near St
George’s Church was turned as black as ink, and continued unfit for use for
nearly a fortnight.” Whether these instances of a change in the colour of
water which are traced to natural causes may not apply to the Kilwinning miracle
will probably be doubted by some, the theory that be means of the lead pipe
already mentioned the ecclesiastics of the abbey performed the Kilwinning
miracles seems more feasible.
With regard to the more
ancient name of the place “Segdoune”, if this be a corruption of sanctoun,
it would imply that, before the establishment of the monastery there was a
religious house at Kilwinning. Pont says that the foundation charter of the
monastery bears record of this ancient name. The writer of the first Statistical
Account of the Parish, in 1794, says that by this name Kilwinning was well known
to the inhabitants. The name was not peculiar to Kilwinning, but was bestowed on
other residences of saints or holy men. It was given to Aberbrothwick;
“Where in ages dim, the sacred hymn Was chaunted holilie. To the solemn
knell of the vesper bell, Near Segton by the sea.
It
is impossible to unravel this mystery, as it is to remove the difficulty that
occurs in any attempt to fix the origin of the monastery. Pont says that the
Abbey was founded by a noble Englishman, Sir Richard Morwell, who was a fugitive
from his own country for the slaughter of Thomas a’ Becket, Archbishop of
Canterbury, in the reign of King Henry II, that he fled to Scotland, was
welcomed by the then Scots King, and honoured with the office of Great Constable
of Scotland, as well as enriched with the Lordships of Cuninghame, Largs and
Lauderdale, that touched with compunction for the safety of his soul, he founded
the Abbey in testimony of his repentance, and first of all did build the choir
or chancel of the said Abbey, endowing it with deverse lands, as namely, the £80
land of Kilwinning. He also states that Avicia Loncaster, the wife of Sir
Richard, gives certain lands in the district to the monastery, that his daughter
Dorothea, wife of Philip de Horssey, finished the building, and that his son,
Walter de Horssey, confirms the grants, that the whole deeds are confirmed by
Pope Honorius II, in the second year of his Pontificate, and that they are
afterwards confirmed by Alexander III, and by Jocelyne, Bishop of Glasgow. It is
impossible to reconcile these dates. In the first place, it seem difficult to
fix the exact date of the assassination of a Becket. It is true that, while
engaged in his devotions in the Church of Canterbury, he was murdered be several
persons who had combined for the purpose. An event so important to the Church,
and so exciting in itself, ought to have been chronicled with accuracy
sufficient to establish the precise date of its occurrence.
Yet
this is far from being the case, for almost every historian who writes of this
fact, assigns to it a different date. Thus, Sir Thomas Grey, the author of
“Scala Cronica,” who wrote in 1355, gives the narrative of the murder in the
usual manner, without specifying the year, but at a subsequent part of his
narrative he says, “En l’an de nostre seignor mile cc.x.xviij. Johan feile
le roy Johan Dengleter qu eirt femme le roy Alexander roy De fcoce moruft,”
“Et miefme ceft ane fuft faint Thomas de Cantorbirs tranflate, le, l’ane
apres fa paffioun, ou de Londres a Cantorbirs chefcun auoit pain, vine, et
prouendre, qu lez demaundoit del erceufque Efteuen.” (Scala Cronica, p. 99).
If according to this historian, the transalation of the body of the Martyr took
place in 1228, and in the 50th year after his death, that event must have
happened in 1178. Fordun thus relates the martyrdom (Lib. viii., cap. 19)
“Tandem cum nec vi nec blanditiis flateretur, quin semper jura ecclesiae suae
tueretur, ecce milites regis armati advenjunt, et tricesimo die postquam in
Angliam est reversus, in ipsa ecclesia Cantuariensi, non longe ab altari,
funestis impetunt gladiis et martyrem efficiunt.” The historian give the names
of the principal actors in this foul tragedy, “Hujus sceleris nefandorum et
principalium actorum nomina sunt haec, Willelmus Bruto, necnon Morelius
Hugo, Richardus Tracy Reginaldus filius Urfi, Martyris in mortem Thomae fuerant
machinati.” It is Hugh, not Richard, de Morville who is here named as one of
the assissins of the Primate. The date is thus
Boece
places the murder of Becket after 1174. He says B. xiii., cap. 4, that William,
King of Scotland, was taken in that year, and, “not lang efter, he was brocht
to King Hary a prisonere in Normandy.” In the commencement of chapter 5, he
says: “At this time, Thomas, Bishop of Canterbury, quhilk was banist afore for
his “obstinat mind in defence of the libertie of haly kirk, was recunsaled to
King Hary “be requeist of sundry gret princes. Bot this recunsaling succedit
to his gret “damage.” He then details the murder. It is thus evident that
Boece gives a date different from Fordun. A still greater anachronism is
committed by Sir James Balfour, in his “Catalogue of all the grate Constable
of Scotland since the 4, yeire of ye Raigne of King Malcolme ye Id.,” which is
given in Dalziel’s Fragments of Scottish History. That writer says, “Heughe
de Norwell, Lord of Lauderdaill, being ane of the killers of Thomas Beckit,
Archbishop of Canterbury, he then living at ye Englische Court, returns home
prudently. His fathers death hapning shortly thereafter, to him he succeeds both
in estate and office, in anno 1159.” This statement is so obviously incorrect,
as to justify the severe censure of the author of Caledonia, who says, vol. i.
p. 708, that Sir James Balfour’s catalogue may be regarded as a “tissue of
mistake, fiction and faleshood.” In Spelman’s History of Sacrilege, p. 133,
the murder of Becket is stated to have occurred in 1192, in the 16th year of the
reign of King Henry II, which is as wide of the truth as the statement of Sir
James Balfour.
The
nearest approach to the true date of the murder, seems to be given by Mathew of
Westminster, whose history is said to be written with a scrupulous regard to
truth, and who lived about the time of the author of Scala Cronica. He says,
that this event happened of Tuesday, the 28th December, 1170, and that it was
very remarkable that Tuesday had been an important day in the Primate’s life.
Upon the Tuesday he suffered; upon Tuesday he was translated; upon Tuesday the
Peers of the land sat in council against him at Northampton; upon Tuesday he was
banished; upon Tuesday the Lord appeared to him at Pontiniacke, saying,
Thomas,Thomas, my church shall be glorified in thy blood; upon Tuesday he
returned from exile; upon Tuesday he got the palm, or reward of martyrdom; and
upon Tuesday, the year 1220, his venerable body received the glory and renoune
of translation, in the
It
is worth noticing, that the old historians give a very different account of the
fate of the assassins of Becket from that given by Pont. According to Roger de
Hoveden, the four unfortunate knights, despairing to obtain the King’s pardon,
wondered up and down (for a time) like vagabonds and runagates upon the earth,
being hateful to all their kindred, as well as to their countrymen, until at
length they resolved to go a pilgrimage to Rome, where Pope Alexander III,
enjoined them this penance, which was, to travel to Jerusalem, and there to live
as penitental convertites in the black mountain, where they finished their days,
and were buried in Jerusalem before the door of the Temple, for whom this
inscription was framed: Hic jacent miseri qui martityaverunt beatum Thomas
Archiepiscopum Cantuariensem.
It
appears from the statement of Pont, that the town of Kilwinning stood on the
east side of Garnock, which glided betwixt the town and the Monastery. It is now
on the west side of the river and surrounds the ruins, and the plain
presbyterian kirk erected in their centre, is in a style of architecture very
different from the stately edifice it has supplanted.
The
Chartulary of Kilwinning seems to have been lost, as it has not been seen for
upwards of a century. Pont quotes from it, and frequently refers to it; and,
from what Sir James Dalrymple says, it is probably that he saw it in the
possession of the Earl of Eglintoun, circa 1700. The seal of the Monastery is
preserved at Eglintoun. An accurate fac simile is given in the following
engraving:- It is thus noticed in the “Descriptive Catalogue,” presented
to the Eannatyne and Maitland Clubs by Henry Laing, Edinburgh, 1850, p. 191:-
“This is a round seal of an exceeding rich and beautiful design, representing,
within a Gothic niche, the Virgin sitting with the Infant Jesus: the background
ornamented with foliage S. commune Abbis et conventus Monasterii de Kylwynyn.
The counter seal bears within a niche the figure of a monk, St Winnin, with the
crozier in his right hand and a book in his left S. commune capituli
Monasterii de Kilwynyng Appended to a feu charter by Gavin, Commendator of
Kilwinning, in favour of Alexander Tarbart, of the lands of Corsehill, A.D. 1557
(penes John Whiteford MacKenzie). The form of the letters, as well as the
execution of the design of this counter seal, evidently proves it the work of a
later period than the previous number, which is probably as early as the
fourteenth century, when the art was in the highest state of perfection. Most
likely the origin matrix of the counter seal had been lost, and this one
substituted by an artist of inferior skill, a short time previous to the date of
the instrument to which it is appended. There was another seal used by the
Abbot, the original of which is supposed to be lost. It bore a halflength
figure of the Virgin and Infant Jesus within a Gothic niche. In the liwer niche
was the figure of a monk kneeling at prayer, S. Abbatis de Killwynyn.
Detached seal, Chapter House, Westminster.”
The
loss of the Records makes it difficult to form an accurate list of the Abbots;
but the following may be considered as approaching to it: 1201. Nigellus
is witness to an agreement and award in a question as to the churches of Kelso,
situated in the Episcopates of St. Andrews and Glasgow. He grants three stones
of wax to the church of Glasgow, 1202 - 1207 (lb., p. 84). He is also witness
to a charter by Walter, the second son of Alan, Steward of Scotland, to the
monks of Paisley, of the lands “inter Hauidpatne et Espidne,” 1208 - 1218,
and to a degree as to the church of Prestwick
1280
Williemus witness to an acquittance by Waiter Cumyn to Richard Boyle
1296.
Bernard who swore fealty to Edward. Robert the Bruce grante.d the lands
of Halland, near the Burgh of Irvine, to God, and the virgin Mary, and the
blessed Saint Winnin, and the Abbot and Monks of Kilwinning and their Monastery.
The date of the charter is not given, nor does the name of the property occur
afterwards in the public records, and is no longer distin guishable. The
grant is not noticed in Kerr’s History of Bruce. When it was made, it is
probably that another Abbot presided, who was more in the interest of the
granter Bernard, who had sworn fealty to Edward.
1335.
William Daunant who has a safe conduct from Edward III.
1351
Robert is witness to a charter granted by John Stewart, Lord of Kyle
Stewart, in favour of his cousin, Sir John Stewart of Derneley, Knight, and his
heirs male therein mentioned, of the lands of Torbolton and of Dremley, lying
within the barony of Kyle Stewart. In 1364, Sir Robert, Abbot of Kilwynyne, is
witness to a Foundation Charter by Robert, Steward of Scotland, of a chapel,
with ten merks yearly, to the abbot of Kerse. On 13th January in that year, he
is present in a Parliament, held at Perth. In 1367, Robert of Kilwynine, is
witness to a charter by Robert, the Steward of Scotland, and John his
first—born son; and is a party to two deeds, in the same year, relating to the
rights of the Church (lb., 33- 37); and occurs in various deeds and
transactions about the same period.
1400
Roger A charter of the lands of Jamestoun, granted by Hugh Francis Blare
of Blare to his son, James Francis Blare, is sealed before Roger, Abbot of
Kilwinning, circa this date (Rob. Ayr. Fain.
1408 Adam Spark had a safe conduct from Henry IV. On 14th June, 1429, at
Kilwynyne, he granted a charter of the patronage of Liberton to the Church of
Glasgow
1449
William Boyd second son of Sir Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock. For many
years, the convent of the Black Friars of Glasgow shared with the chapter house
of the Cathedral the merit of sheltering under its roof the more solinn
assemblies of the poorly endowed University, which a pious bishop founded in
Glasgow in the middle of the fifteenth century, and which seems, at least in its
infancy, to have derived many of its desciples from the Monastries and Friaries
of the neighbourhood. Thus we find that, in the general congregation of the
University, held in the chapter of the Friars Preaching in 1451, there were
incorporated members the Abbot of Kilwynyng, William Boyd; Sir William
Fresell, Prior of Blantyre; Sir John Spark and Sir Robert Quhyte, monks of
Kilwynning.
1494
William Bunsh Abbot of Kilwyning, comperit before ye Kings Hieness and
“protestit y Henry Kelso and Marioun Mvre gart warne and call him at thare
“instance and wald no compere to follow him. In 1513, William, Abbot of
Kilwinning, was one of four churchmen who fell at Flodden
1515
James Beaton, alias Bethune, the youngest son of John Bethune, laird of
Balfour, in Fife, was Provost of Bothwell in 1504, and Treasurer of the <kingdom
in 1505. In 1508 he became elect of Galloway, but before he had sat one year in
that See, was translated to Glasgow, at which time he resigned the office of
Lord Treasurer. In 1515 this bishop was made Lord Cqancellor, and as he was in
great favour with John, Duke of Albany, ;egent of the Kingdom, he got likewise
the Abbacies of Arbroath and Kilwinning, 20 commendam. He was interred in the
Cathedral Church of St. Andrews, before <~he high altar. “There is one
thing that lies very heavy upon the memory of Beaton, and which a right rev,
prelate of his own order says was a great misfortune to him, that under the
shadow of his authority many good men were put to death for the cause of
religion, particularly that excellent pious young gentleman, Mr. Hamilton, the
titular abbot of Ferne, though Archbishop Beaton was neither violently set nor
much solicitous, as was thought, how matters went in the Church.
1526
Alexander Hamilton obtained a letter of admission to the temporalities of the Abbey on 8th August, 1526. He appears to have resigned it in favour
of Henry Sinclair, afterwards Bishop of Ross and President of the College of
Justice, in the end of 1541 or beginning of 1542, reserving to himself the
fruits and rights of re-entry (Epis. Reg. Scot. II. p. 133). He is marked as
an extraordinary Lord of Sessions, on 17th November 1533
1541
Henry Sinclair a son of the House of Roslin, a person of eminent parts,
came to be much taken notice of by King James V. He became Abbot, or perpetual
Commendator of Kilwinning, in 1541, which he exchanged with Gavin Hamilton for
the Deanery of Glasgow in 1550 (Keith’s Catal., p. 193).
1550Gavin Hamilton fourth son of James Hamilton, of Raploch, succeeded to the Abbacy, in commendam. According to Spottiswood, p. 68, this was designed him by Archbishop Beaton, and was confirmed to him by the King for the esteem in which he held the Archbishop; but, in Anderson’s History of the Hamiltons, it is said, that he exchanged his office of Dean of the Metropolitan Church in Glasgow, in 1550 with Henry Sinclair, Commendator of Kilwinning, for the commendam of that Abbacy (p. 356). In 1559 he succeeded to the estate of Raploch, as heir of his brother Archibald. Being a man of much spirit, and of great talents for bisiness, he took an interest in public affairs, and was strongly attached to Queen Mary, with whom he stood in high favour. He was nominated an ordinary Lord of Sessions on the 4th January, 1555, but this place he gave up, in 1560, to Alexander Dunbar, subchanter of Murray.
Queen Mary then appointed him an extraordinary Lord, and ordered the Court to retain him in that place, notwithstanding his absence abroad, and to receive no other in his room “for any writing given or to be given by us in the contrair.” He was accordingly readmitted, as an extraordinary Lord, on the 27th June, 1556, in terms of the Queen’s letter of 18th May preceding. In the meeting of the Estates, which tool place in Edinburgh on 1st August, 1560, he appeared as Commen dator of Kilwinning, and when the Protestant Confession of Faith was introduced, opposed it at first in a lukewarm manner, but gave way, and embraced the new faith.
Spottiswood says, that “in electing the Lords of the Articles, the
noblemen that had nomination of the clergy, passing by such amongst them as they
knew to be popishly affected, made choice of the Bishops of Galloway and Argyle,
the Prior of St. Andrew s, the Abbots of Aberbrothwick, Kilwinning, Landars,
Newbottle, and Culross, at which the Prelates stormed mightily alleging that
some of them were mere laicks, and all of them Apostates, for they had openly
renounced popery, and joined themselves with the professors of the truth; but
there was no remedy, the course was changed, and now it behoved them to take law
who formerly had given it to others.” He was in the end of March, 1562,
accused by Arran of being privy to a conspiricy to carry off the queen to
Dumbarton, and to kill her principal ministers, and was in consequence
apprehended and imprisoned in Stirling Castle, but was shortly afterwards set to
liberty.
The
Queen’s marriage with Darnley drove Murray and the Hamiltons into rebelion,
but being defeated, they were obliged to fly into England. The Abbot of
Kilwinning was sent to London, to implore the interposition of Elizabeth, and
was active in attempting a reconciliation between the contending parties, and,
as is usual in such cases, incurred the displeasure and suspicions of both.
After Mary’s unhappy flight into England, the Abbot was one of the commissioners,
on her part, who met with those of Elizabeth at York, in October, 1568.
After
the death of the Regent Murray in 1570, the Abbot took a prominent part in the
Civil war which ensued, and was in consequence, during that year, denounced
rebel. In the beginning of 1571, he arrived, with the rest of the Queen’s
Lords, at Edinburgh, and distinguished himself in several of the skirmishes
which were then daily taking place. On 14th May, in that year, he was forfeited
in the Parliament held without the gate of Edinburgh. Of this parliament
Godscroft says (vol. ii., p. 210), that “the Regent, finding himself not
strong enough to face the town of Edinburgh, went hard to the gate, and having
caused cast up a trench to keep the enemy from sallying out, they held the
parliament, though without the gates, yet within the liberties of the city,
which lawyers said was as good as if it had been within the walls. They sat five
days, during which the ordnance from the castle did play upon them continually,
and the bullets did often fall amongst them, yet not any man was slain, or hurt,
as if by special providence they had been protected.”
On the 16th June, 1571, the Queen’s Lords, according to Spottiswood, resolved out of courtesy to convoy Sir William Drury, the Marshall of Berwick, some little distance from town. The Earl of Morton, who then lay sick in Leith, thinking this was done by way of vaunt, arose from his bed, and gathering his soldiers, led them to the village of Restalrig, by which the others were to pass. Sir William endeavoured to persuade both parties to retire, which they reluctantly agreed to, but the pride of neither would stoop to show example. The Queen’s Lords insisted that Morton should depart first, as he had first sought the field; and having brought two cannon from the Castle, they boasted that if he did not leave the field willingly they would drive him from it. Morton, when he heard their threaten ings, immediately cried aloud, “oh, we shall soon see who keeps the field last!” and charged the Queen’s party so fiercely that the horse were driven back among the foot, and universal confusion followed. They were persued to the Watergate, where, on account of the narrowness of the passage, great numbers were killed and trodden to death. Many were also taken prisoners, among the rest the Abbot of Kilwinning. He had previously been mortally wounded, and died within an hour after he was carried to Leith. The day on which he was slain was long after known as Black Saturday.
His character is
represented in different colours by historians. Spottiswood says that he was
greatly lamented, for that he was, of all his faction esteemed most moderate.
Knox calls him a crafty man (lB. ii.); while Drumsey says he was by all esteemed
and lamented; and Thomas Randall, in a letter to Sir Ralph Sadler and Sir James
Cross, 12th October, 1559, says “the Abbot of Kilwinning is as false a karle
as his cousin the Archbishop.” He lived in times of exciting change, when it
was difficult to persue an undeviating path. On the establishment of the
Reformation, he followed the example of many churchmen, and married Margaret,
daughter of John Hamilton, of Broomhill, by whom he had a son, Gavin, who
succeeded to his estate, and a daughter, Jean, married to Robert Dalziel of that
Ilk. The son had taken part with his father in public affairs, was at Langside
on the part of Queen Mary, where he was taken prisoner, and was forfeited by
Parliament in 1571.
A
person of such sagacity as Gavin Hamilton could not but foresee the approaching
storm, and the necessity of making provision for it. He gave large grants of the
Abbey lands to his friends and connections. In 1552 he made Hugh, fifth Earl of
Eglintoun, Justiciary, Chamberlain, and Bailie of Kilwinning, and assigned him a
considerable salary for discharging these offices, which grant was confirmed by
the Queen. On 26 June, 1559, 10 October, 1560, and 27 September, 1563, he
granted, at Kilwinning, Feu charters to James Hamilton, his son, of the
following lands:- All and Haul the wood called the Innerwood and new part of
Kilwinning lying within the parochine and regality of Kulwinning and Sheriffdom
of Ayr, the meadow, called the Swan meadow, the meadow called the Dean William
Woods meadow, the meadow called the Roune meadow, the meadow called Dalglen
meadow, eight acres of land called the beir flatt, the ward called meikle ward
alias big ward, the meadow called the priors’ meadow and parsons’ fauld, the
meadow called meikle meadow alias broad meadow, and nine acres of land adjacent
thereto and asticted multures thereof, used and wont, and all and sundry their
pertinents, together with the teinds of all and sundry the foresaid lands; the
nineteen shilling and four penny land of new extent of Whitehirst, three
shilling six penny land of auld extent of Over Whitehirst, twenty penny land of
Brigend easter; twentyfour shilling land of old extent of Overhill of Beith
with the teinds of the same, twenty shilling four penny land of new extent of
Boigsyde within the parochine of Beith and regality foresaid with the tends of
the same; two schilling and aught penny land of the said lands of Boigsyde of
old extent, eight shilling four penny land of the same lands, eleven shilling
aucht penny land of the said lands of bogsyde of new extent, four shilling and
two penny land of the lands foresaid lying in the parochine of Kilwinning. Gavin
Hamilton, the son, sold these lands to Robert, Lord Boyd, who, considering
himself in danger of the sellers’ forfeiture, which would have nullified his
conveyance, applied to the King and the Lords of Articles, stating that as he
“had lelalie and trewly servit our Sovereign Lord “at sindrie places and now
laitlie at Hammylton and abaid at his Majesty’s obedience “and
notwithstanding that the samyn lands ar coft by the said lord bona fide,” he
therefore craved that his title to them might be ratified by Parliament. This
was done on 11th November, 1579
The
Abbot had also disponed to his son Gavin of Raploch a yearly annual rent of feu
farm of 16 boils of meal, 4 boils beir, 9 score 18 stones of cheese, and 7
stirks, payable furth of the lands of Auchintiber and Airthmaid (Auchinmade),
with the pertinents lying within the said abbacies. This grant had been found
good in a question with Alexander, the succeeding Commendator, by decree of the
Lords of Council and Session, on 13 August 1588, and which was ratified by
Parliament on 1st June 1592. The grant and consequent proceedings were again
confirmed by Parliament on 17th June 1609. This shows the insecurity of the
titles under which these grants were held, and the anxiety of the possessors
thereof to have them confirmed by law.
According
to Dempster, at this period there was a prior of some celebrity at Kiiwinning,
of whose name he was ignorant. The following is the account given of him:
“Anonymus Kilwinnius aut Kilwinninus ejusdem ordinis frater, coenobii sui
etiam prior, ad eandem famam cum Jacobo superius nominato contendit, licet
dispari successu. Scripsit “Pro Alphonsi Tabulis contra Fratrem Jocobus
1571 After the death of Gavin Hamilton, the Abbey was given in commendam to
Alexander Cunninghame, third son of Alexander, fifth Earl of Glencairn, a keen
promoter of the Reformation, not only by his counsel, but by his pen. A specimen
of his powers in satirical verse has been preserved by Sibbald in his Chronicle
of Scottish Poetry. The Commendator, Alexander, appears in a Parliament held at
Stirling on 7th August, 1579. In 1581 he was denounced rebel, and put to the
horn by John Boid, reidar at Kilmarnock, for nonpayment of his stipend (Blair
Writs). He had a charter of the lands of Montgreenan to himself and Jean Blair,
his wife, which was confirmed 2nd March, 1582-3
At
this time the feud which had so long subsisted between the Cuninghames and
Montgomeries raged with great fury. On 18th April, 1586, Hugh, fourth Earl of
Eglintoun, was waylaid by the Cuninghames near Stewartoun, and cruelly murdered;
and in this foul act, it is said that Alexander, the Commendator, was an
accessary. The Montgomeries avenged the death of their chief in a manner equally
reprehensible, watching and killing every person of the name of Cuninghame they
could meet or get hold of. Sir Robert Montgomerie of Skelmorlie shot the
Commendator of Kilwinning at his own gate, on 1st August, 1591; and, in the
afternoon of that day, a grant of the office was made to Mr William Melvil,
Commendator of Tungland. The grant was challenged, and found null under the
canon law, as the following report of the case by Spottiswood shews:- No. 13,
1,591 Melvil against Mr William Melvil, Commendator of Tungland, being
provided to the Abbacy of Kilwinning, after the slaughter of the Commendator
thereof, his right was questioned as null of itself, per regalum 20 cancellaria,
de verisimili notitia: Num beneficium vacare debet antequam alio detur; et
tantum temporis post vacationerm effluere debet quantum sufficiat iilum ad
notitiam sumni pontificis pervenire; but so it was, that his provision was dated
1st August, on which day, at five o’clock in the afternoon, his predecessor
was slain, ita ut verisimiliter ejus notitia ad principan tam cito pervenire
non potuerat. Answered, that rule and law of the Pope id not oblige the
King’s subjects, the Pope’s jurisdiction being abrogated. The Lords found,
that the rule de verisimili notitia should have place, not for the authors of
the law, sed propter rationem legis qua est anima legisviz, ne detur occassio
captandi mortem alterius, (Spottiswood, p. 187). The case is referred to and
approved by Forbes, in his Treatise of Titles.
Afterwards
the Commendator of Tungland had the grant to Kilwinning ratified by Parliament,
5th June 1592 (Acts of Parl., vol. iii, p. 599), but soon afterwards resigned
the whole to the crown. A Charter passed the Great Seal 5th January, 1603-4,
erecting all the lands and tithes which belonged to the Abbey, with the
patronage of sixteen Parish Churches into the free temporal Lordship of
Kilwinning, in favour of Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglintoun (Doug. Peer., vol. i, p.
501). Notwithstanding of this Royal grant, which must have been on the public
records, we find, James, Earl of Glencairn, in a letter to the King, dated at
Edinburgh, 4th March, 1607, saying “This erectioune of the Abessci of
Kilwyning, of whilke my Lord of Eglingtoune menis to suite att your Majestie,
will nocht faill to intertene the feid of trubill amangis us, for we wil be all
enterest thairby, and I protest befoir your Majestie I haid loisse my lyf or ony
occatioune war gifin be me to breke that unity whilke your Majestie will
command” (Letters and State Papers of the Reign of James VI, presented to the
Abbotsford Club by Adam Anderson, 1835. This letter is not consistent with the
fact of the Crown Charter having been obtained three years previously by Lord
Eglintoun, which, probably, had not been made publicly known; but this right,
then obtained by Lord Eglintoun, his descendant now enjoys.
Another
competitor for the spoils of Kilwinning appeared. Sir Michael Balfour, first
Lord Balfour of Burleigh, on 7th September, 1614, obtained from King James a
Charter of the barony of Kilwinning, to him and his heirs and assignees
whatever. This grant has been viewed “as an intolerable act of injustice,”
and seems never to have been acted on.
The
office of Commendator appears still to have been retained, and after the
restoration of Episcopacy, in 1606, had all the privileges attached to the
order, and we find the Bishops taking their seats in Parliament as formerly. The
Crown nominated the Commendators as vacancies occurred. John Spottiswood,
Archbishop of St Andrews, was made Commendator of Kilwinning, and in 1621, with
consent of the Convent, resigned the kirk of Kilmackormack to the Crown for
behoof of Andrew, Bishop of Argyle, to whom the grant was confirmed, without
prejudice to the right of the Earl of Eglintoun to the said kirk, to which
conditions the Bishop of Argyle, being present, consented, and “subscryvit
with his awin hand”. This order was again abolished in 1638, when Presbytery
got the power, and ruled until 1662, when it was subjected to the rigorous
persecution which followed the restoration of Episcopacy, and at last was
finally settled in 1689 and 1690.
Of the exact date when the Monastery was destroyed there is no evidence Knox says, that the Lords of Secret Council made an Act that all places and monuments of idolatry should be demolished, and for that purpose, was directed to the west, the Earl of Arran, having joined with him the Earls of Argyle and Glencairn together with the Protestants of the west, who burnt Paisley (the Bishop of St Andrews, who was Abbot thereof, having narrowly escaped), cast down Fail, Kilwinning, and a part of Crossraguel (Book 111., vol. i. p. 638). This Act was passed in 1561 (Cald. Hist., vol. ii., p. 130), and it is probable was forthwith acted upon, though some of the religious houses in Scotland had been destroyed before this year. No private record is known to be extant giving any details of the demolition of Kilwinning. Pont says it was destroyed in 1591. The work might be finished in that year, but Knox, who died in 1574, could not narrate that Kilwinning had been “cast down,” had not the devastion gone a considerable length in his own lifetime. According to the Topographer, the structure of the Monastery was solid and great, all of freestone cut.
The Church, fair and
stately, after the model of that of Glasgow. It is equally vain to trace the
extent of the building, or to convey an exact idea of its magnificence. From the
remains of the gable of the south transept, which is still nearly complete, and
is at a rough calculation 80 or 90 feet high, there is no question of its having
been one of the most splendid speciments of Gothic architecture which the zeal
of our ancestors raised in Scotland under the influence of a corrupt, ambitious
priesthood. But however much their destruction may be lamented, this is not to
be put in comparision with the benefits which have resulted to mankind from the
overthrow of a system which preyed on the garbage of human nature, and delighted
in the enthralment of the human mind. The ruins have repeatedly attracted the
notice, and employed the burin of the artist, from 1789, when Grose made his
antiquarian tour in Scotland, until 1845-52, when the splendid work on “The
Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland” was given to the public
by Robert William Binnings.
Prior
to the spoliation of the Monastery, besides the extensive valuable lands held in
property in different parts of Cuninghame, the yearly revenue of the Abbacy
amounted to £880 3s 4d Scots; 67 chaldrons, 9 bolls, 3 firlots of meal; 14
chaldrons, 1 boll, 3 firlots, 3 pecks of bear;
Apostolis
to walke attentlie and continualie upon zour flok, and knaw diiigentlie the
samyn be face? Or gaif the Princes of the erth zou zeiriy rentis (as the
disciples in the beginnyng sauld thair landis, as gaif the pryces thairof to the
Apostoiis), to the end that euery ane of zow mot spend the samyn vpon his Dame
Daiida and bastard browis?”
The
only memento of Popery connected with the Abbey which has been preserved is the
Cross which stands on the main street of Kilwinning. The present one is of wood,
and is a renewal of a more ancient symbol of the Catholic faith. It is, of
course, unconsecrated, and has no virtue either in curing diseases, or exciting
the devotions of the inhabitants of Kilwinning, yet, it tell its own tale, and
stands as a land mark of history. In the gavel of a house, built about 20 years
ago in the same street, there has been placed a stone with some figures cut in
it representing a scripture scene. Doubtless this stone had once decorated the
wails of the Monastery, or some of the buildings attached to it. No other
similar remanant is known to exist. Immediately to the south of the Tower there
is a house which retains some appearance of having been in existance in the days
of the Abbey. In the titles the property is described as follows:- “All and
Haul that stone house, under and above, from the ground upward, commonly called
the chamber of the Courthall, lying upon the south part of the sometime
Abbacie and Monasterie of Kilwinning, bounded betwixt the wall of the Church of
the same contigue with the said Courthall, together with the said
Courthall itself, and with two vaults situate under the said hall joined
thereto in the same south side, together with a little quadrangle portion of
land of fourtie foot in length, and as much breadth, lying upon the west side of
the said house, with the pertinents; and also with the quadrangle ayla of the
little yard lying upon the east syde of the said house, commonly called the
Closs yeard, with the walls of the said Closs yeard environing it upon all
hands; with all and sundry, the remanent houses and biggings built upon the
ground of the same, with the pertinents, lying within the Parish and Regality of
Kilwinning Bailery of Cunninghame and Sheriffdom of Ayr.”
Soon after the
Reformation this property was aquired by Alexander Wryttoune, minister at
Kilwinning, who was infeft in it in 1606, and was succeeded by his daughter
Margaret, who was wife of Mr. Ralph Roger, minister of Ardrossan. Her sasine
proceeds on a precept, granted by Oliver, Lord Protector, dated 26th March,
1658. On the lintel are cut the following lines:- “SINE TE DEVS CVNCTA
NIL GOD IS THE BVILDER PRASIT BE HE.”
Pont
says that the Garnock “glyds betwix ye toune and Abbey ouer passed with “a
faire stone bridge,” and, as he visited the place during his survey, there can
be no doubt of the fact. The present town, which is upon the west side of the
river, therefore stands on ground which was inclosed within the “faire stone
wall, within which” were the “goodly gardens and orchards” of the
Monastery. Where the old town stood there is a suburb called Corsehill, so
named, it may be presumed, because on it was raised the protecting consecrated
Cross of the Abbey, at which villagers and wayfarers knelt down to pray.
“To Him, once
crucified, who shed his blood
For all mankind
but, ah! in stone, or wood,
Salvation’s symbol
oftener was adored,
Than he who wrought
salvation Christ the Lord.
Nor deem it strange,
that superstition should
Fall down and err,
where ignorance bids it rise,
Through this vague
medium up to that great sacrifice.
(1874.
A recent Commentator has concluded that our Topographer, or his transcribers,
have erred in stating that the river Garnock glided betwixt the town and the
Abbey, and has condemned the extant version of Sir James Balfour as in this
respect, undoubtedly, altogether erroneous. Yet, in support of this strong
contradictory statement, not the smallest tittle of evidence or argument, was
brought forward in support of the seemingly rather dogmatic assertion.
The Church fair and stately, and the Monastery solid and great, with its goodly gardens and orchards, when Pont saw them, had their “precinct environed with a fair stone wall”. Had the fair stone wall been lined with houses as we now see it, it certainly could not have deserved the description. Had they even been near it, he would probably have added, “and one its north syde neir adoiyning therto are ye duellings of ye laicks of ye toune”! But he has not done so. The row of houses now forming the main street, and the oldest houses on this part of the town, seem to have been built on the very line of the northern wall, and the material of it, or of the ruined Abbey, or both, appropriated for their erection. Two small portions of a wall still existing at the back of some of those houses which have not been built into it have very much the appearance, from the weatherworn condition of the stones composing them, of having formed part of the original wall. A few old and respectable inhabitants of the present day assert, that the remains of the wall now to be seen, are not those of the old wall, but are part of a wall at the building of which their fathers or grandfathers assisted, and which was constructed with the materials of an old wall which had stood further away from the Abbey.
Be this as it may, some of the
older houses now standing here, and at the descent to the bridge show
unmistakeable signs, from the same weather worn appearances, of their builders
having appropriated material from the ruins of either wall, or Abbey. The stone
on which some figures are carved in relief, representing, apparently, David and
his harp with sheep around him, and underneath a figure on horseback, which may
have been meant for Saul (or goliath of Gath, to judge from the size of his
spear) ,and which had been in the wall of the building near the cross, referred
to by the Annotator (ante), is still to be seen, though the tenement has since
been rebuilt; and, in the same neighbourhood, there are other carved stones, and
a very heavy lintel across a passage between two houses, all evidently parts of
the old Abbey. It is possible, though scarcely probable, that such heavy
material as this lintel may have formed part of the buildings in connection with
the Abbey miln near the bridge.
There are no titles existing, to any of these houses, which date during the rule of the Abbots, the oldest of them being not more than about 150 years back. The one mentioned by the Annotator as having been acquired in 1600, by Alexander Wryttoun, (second minister of Kilwinning after the Reformation,) “is the oldest house in Kilwinning,” but it is undoubtedly part of the old Abbey buildings, excepting the upper part of its present upper storey and roof. The parallel range of buildings on the other, or east side of the court yard, and part of the same grant, is built upon the vaulted ground storey of old monastic buildings connected with the walls of the ruined church. The fine old three storied house at the south end, of what bears the now somewhat apocryphal name of “the Green,” built by Major Hew Bontine (an old soldier of the Commonwealth, see “Law Castle”), on ground granted to him by Cromwell, is the only other realy old house in this central part of Kilwinning, and besides being like other, undoubtedly, within the precincts of the Abbey, can only date its existence 216 years ago. None of them can show titles from the Abbots. The original manse and glebe of the Reformation is now occupied as part of central Kilwinning, and was only excambied towards the end of last century for the present clerical residence, in order to make room for the increase of this part of the town. The lands of Corshill were were granted by the Abbot, Henry, to Thomas Nevin and Elizabeth Crawfurd, in 1545, and lands in that locality, and bearing the same name, were long held in small lots of runrig down to the beginning of the present century.
Tradition asserts that these were occupied and
cultivated by the owners of the town lots in Bridgend, Pathfoot, and Corshill,
which constituted the old town of Kilwinning. There is a great lack of direct
written evidence on the point. Referring to the retours, unfortunately, they do
not extend very far back. Those which do occur, however, ranging from 1599 to
1677, with one exception, all refer to lands in “Eister Brigend of Kilwyning”
and “Pethfut,” or to Corshill e.g., On 22nd December, 1630, “Hugh
Bankheid is retoured heir of Jacob Bankheid in Eister Brigend of Kilwinning, in
the lOs. land of new extent, of the lands of Corshill Kilwinning; the 40 penny
land of old extent, of Eister Brigend Kilwinning, with house; and house and
garden, of old called Pretorium, commonly “Tolbuithe, and the 35 penny land of
old extent of Pethfut, within the town, parish and regality of Kilwinning. Among
those also, are the retours of Bessie Lyn, as heir of her father, the shoemaker
in Eister Brigend, (1628); and Jonet Tempiltoun, as heir of Hugh, her
grandfather, the blacksmith of Corshill, (1645).” Blaeu’s Map, founded on
Pont’s survey, places the abbey buildings in a centre between the word
“Kill” on the left, or west, and “Winnin” on the right, or to the east,
and over a place, marked by one of the usual circular dots, on the other side of
the river.
Monastic
establishments, when not in combination with a Royal Palace or baronial
stronghold, as a rule seem to have preferred keeping the laity at a respectful
distance. In the absence of further direct proof that the town of Kilwinning
in Pont’s time a mere clachan, worthy of mention only incedentally was
situated on the other side of the river from the abbey, if we turn to the
consideration of the arrangements and changes which have over other similar
establishments of importance since the period of the Reformation, there is
certainly nothing to stagger the believer in Pont’s version of Kilwinning.
Take, for example, its nearest neighbour of like standing and extent, Paisley,
and we find that, “In the year 1484, during the reign of James III, the Abbey
Church and monastic buildings, with its large gardens and orchards, were
enclosed by a magnificent wall of hewn stone, about a mile in circuit. This
splendid wall ran from the northern transept of the church along the present
line of Lawn Street to the wall neuk, where it turned east, and ran along the
line of what is called Inkle Street; at the extremity of this street it turned
southwards, skirting what is still called the ‘Mill Road,’ where it
terminated at the Columbarium, which stood close to the banks of the Cart,
opposite the water at the Seedhill mills” (Mackie’s Hist. of Abbey of Pais.,
pp. 45-6). After the fiat of destruction had gone forth, “The lofty
steeple and a great part of of the church were demolished; the only part of the
fabric that was preserved is the chancel. The Abbey park, its orchards and
gardens, form now the site of the new town of Paisley, which has arisen since
1781. The magnificent cutstone wall that enclosed the park has been pulled
down, and the stones have been used in building the houses in that locality”
(lb., p. 54). The map of Renfrewshire, published by Blaeu in 1654, corroborates
this account, no part of the town being on the same side of the river as the
Abbey. “When Crawfurd wrote his History of Renfrewshire (published 1710), the
town of Paisley consisted of no more than one principal street, and a few narrow
lanes branching from it.” Its population in 1695 was 2200 (Machie’s Hist.,
p. 119). In 1695 the population of the old town and Abbey parish was 4375. In
1811, Paisley, including old and new town and Abbey parish, alone. amounted to
16,785.
From what now remains of Kilwinning it may be presumed that the fair stone wall mentioned by Pont commenced at or near the base of the tower of the Abbey Church. Taking for a short distance a line, north, it formed an angle and turned east, running parallel with the Church at a distance of about twenty—seven yards from the gable of its northern transept, and extending to about nine yards farther east than the parallel of the gable of the choir it formed an angle, turning south to a line nearly parallel with the gable of the north transept, including within this precinct the old portion of the present burying ground. Here it again resumed its eastward course, and extended towards the high bank of the river, where it overlooked the bridge, and the Abbey miln. This mill was granted by Alexander, Commendator of Kilwinning, ‘to his son Magister James Cunninghame of Montgreenan, Vide Retours, 1645 and 1674, where it is described as the “corn mylne of Kilwinning at the west end of the bridge of the same, with the mill lands called Milne holme and Strickhirst et domibus super montem mollendinarium.” Opposite to these were the houses of the laity in Bridgend Kilwinning, Pathfoot and Corsehill. From this point the wall appears to have followed a line, south, to the Columbarium, the site of which is still pointed out, and the lane leading to it now bears the name of “Dowcat Lone.” From this Columbarium it extended on its southern aspect to the southwest corner at its junction with the “Alms Wall,” the foundations of which, on a line running north and south, are yet in partextant.
The Alms wall after including “The
Green,” seems to have formed the northwest angle in conjunction with a line
running east, which embraced in its course the old north gateway now leading
into the Green, and also apparently, some outbuildings of the Abbey, finishing
the circumvallation at the starting point under or near the base of the
tower. This precinct included the extensive buildings of the monastery, its
gardens and orchards; and similarity of its arrangements to those of Paisley
seems somewhat striking. That the fate of Paisley should also have been that
of Kil winning, and that the now most populous quarter of the town consisting in 1819 “chiefly of one street from east to west, about 350 or 400
yards long,” and whose inhabitants numbered “about 1934,” inclusive of
those who dwelt in “Corsehill and Bridgend on the east and Byres on the
west.” should have accumulated around the massive ruins of the cast down
Abbey, is surely no very hard matter of belief. If it were not so, where have
the ruins gone to? What more likely than they afforded at the same time both the
materials and inducement for building the present central part of the town
Kilwinning.
In
conclusion, it may be remarked that there is scarcely a village, or the
surroundings of a parochial church, mentioned in the “Alphabett,” from
“Ardrossan Kirk” to “Saltecottes” (with the exception of Kilmaurs,
Kilbryde, Dreghorn and Dunlop), whose history of progression is not equally, and
in many cases much more striking than that of Kilwinning. For what befell the
neighbouring “Frierry of ye Order of ye Carmalitts,” which formerly stood
near the “fair stone bridge”of Irvine, the reader is referred to the Article
on “Irrwyne toune.”
The
paragraph quoted by the Annotator from the Statistical Account of the parish,
relative to the discovery of the leaden pipe on levelling the Green in 1826, as
being the “more feasible” way of accounting for the miraculous flow of blood
from one of the fountains of Kilwinning, has since his day, been assailed and
ridiculed. The fact, as related by the Ecclesiastical Historians, occured,
however not “in the middle of the 8th century,” but in the year 1184 Lord
Hailes, judgelike, gave his interlocutor on the evidence before him. He does
not say that he believed in the miracle, but in the fact two very different
things. He might not have appended a note to his judgment; but, assailed by the
sneers of critics, he did not choose to do so. The discovery of the leaden pipe,
which the writer in the work above referred to thinks might account for the
fact, though unknown to the learned Lord, if known, would, no doubt, have tended
to strengthen his belief and affirm his judgment. Many such miraculous
narratives of our older historians might in the same way be resolved into simple
fact; and the Church of Rome has not been awanting, even in our own times, in
supplying the miracles. Leaden pipes were of much older invention than 1184,
having been used in the days of the Emperors to conduct water from the aqueducts
to the houses in Rome.
The
Abbots of Kilwinning were rich - “the revenues of this Abbey were great
and many by their properlands;” and some of the monks were, no doubt, handy,
clever fellows, and had pride in keeping up the celebrity of their Saint.
Steven,
minister. Refounded by Archibald, 13th Earl of Eglinton and Winton and enlarged
by contributions from the parishoners in the year 1859 Dr. Campbell,
minister.” Whether this bell was first recast from one which had been in use
during the times of the Abbots, is not mentioned. Besides its Parish Church, of
which its longrespected minister the Rev. Archibald Blair Campbell, D.D. has
recently resigned the charge, and has been succeeded by the Rev. William Lee Ker,
M.A., Kilwinning has also a Free Church, Rev. William Pinkerton; United
Presbyterian, Rev. Alexander MacGregor; Original Secession, Rev. Thomas
Robertson; and an Evangelical Union, reported vacant.
The
population of the town is given as 3598, and by the census of 1871, that of the
parish as 7375. The valuation of the parish in 1640 (vide App. I.) is stated as
£6367 3s 2d; in the Valuation Roll of 1873-4 it is £33,404 6s.
KRAIGNAUGHT
NETHER IS YE POSSEFIONE OF GAUIN HAMILTONE OF RAPLAUCH
Creag,
contracted from carriag (Gaelic), a craig or crag; nochdta, naked, i.e., the
bare rock.
Craignaught
is inthe northeast part of the parish of Dunlop, on the confines of
Renfreshire, and is now the property of John Gilmour. A hill on this farm was
the scene of a conflict between the Stewarts and the Boyds, which was contested
with remarkable ferocity. A feud of long standing had subsisted between these
two powerful families which the law was too feeble to supress. Sir Alan Stewart
of Darnley, who had held the high office of Constable of the Scottish Army in
France was treacherously slain at Polmais—thorn, between Falkirk and
Linlithgow, by Sir Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock, for this “old fead”.
Pit.~cottie says that Alexander Stewart, to “revenge his brother’s
slaughter, manfully set upon Sir Thomas Boyd in “plain battle, where the said
Sir Thomas was cruelly lain with many valient men on every “every side. It was
foughten that day so manfully that both the parties would retire “and rest
themselves diverse and sundry times, and rencounter again at the sound “of the
trumpet, while at last the victory inclined to Alexander Stewart”. There is,
perhaps,no similar passage of arms on record. The retiring to rest, and the
resumption of the fight at the sound of the trumpet, sounds like the heroism of
romance.
Of
this rencounter, Sir James Balfour says that it kindled such a flame of civil
discord in Kyle, Barron—frew, Carrick and Cunninghame, that had not the death
of the Earl of Douglas quenched it, it had consumed a great part of the west of
Scotland (vol. i., p. 168). Alexander Stewart bore the soubriquet of
Buckteeth, and so is designated, in addition to Seats Cron., where this
skirmish is mentioned. The scene of the battle is pointed out by tradition, and
makes the hill of Craignaught a spot worthy of a visit. The date of the
conflict was on 9th July 1439, soon after the accession of James II.
(1874
Craignaught, formerly belonging to John Gilmour, is now the property of
Alexander Cochran of Grange, in the parish of Dunlop).
BENESLIE
This
property is in the parish of Kilwinning, and belongs to the Earl of Eglinton and
Winton.
(1874
There is now a miners1 village at Beneslie, with a population of 313. It is
marked on the map as “Bensly”).
(1989
Benslie today is a small thriving hamlet with the working Benslie Fauld farm
and twelve cottages).
KLONBYITH
belongs to William Cuninghame
Clonbeith
is in the parish of Kilwinning. The name seems of Celtic origin, from Cluain,
grazing land, and beithe, birch. The Cuninghames of Clonbeith, according to
Nisbet, were cadets of Glencairn, through the Cuninghames of Aiket. A short and
imperfect account of the family is given by Robertson, vol. i., p. 294. It is
difficult to add to it without persuing the titledeeds of the estate, which
are not likely to be preserved, there is an anecdote, given in M’crie’s life
of Melville, of Alexander cuninghame, younger of elonbeith, who assaulted the
Professor in the college gardens at Glasgow, and who was obliged to make open
acknowledgment of his fault. This was done in the presence of a large assembly
of the offenders friends. The Professor on this occaddion displayed the
inflexible integrity of his independant mind, and maintained the character of
the University. It may be added that the successor of John Cuninghame, who, in
1568, shot Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, and who himself was cut in pieces soon
afterwards by the Earl’s exasperated friends, was William Cuninghame who was
in possession of the estate when Ponte wrote. He was married to Agnes Cuninghame,
who died in December 1612. He occurs in the testament of William Rankine,
Kilmauris, March,1620 (Conf., 9th Feb.,1621). Daniell Cuninghame of Clonbeith is
a witness in the testament of Alexander Cuninghame in Colwyn, May 28th 1626. He
appears again in the testament of Janet Baird, Symontown, March, 1629. William
Cuninghame, fear of Clonbeith occurs in the testament of Robert Broune of
Burrowland, October, 1630 (Conf., 26th July, 1631). The estate was aquired by
Alexander, ninth Earl of Eglintoun in 1717, and still remains with the family.
The ruins of the old tower, situated on the west bank of the Lugton, from a
conspicuous object in the neighbourhood.
(1874
“Klnolyth” appears on the map too near Eglintoun, wheras, it ought to
have been nearly opposite “Mengrinen”). (1989 Clonbeith Castle is now
the middle of a farm yard). LUDGAR FLUUIUS iffues from Lochlibo
This
stream, now commonly known called Lugton, rises half a mile north of Lochlibo,
in the parish of Neilston in Renfrewshire. It enters Ayrshire near to Caldwell
House. Thence it divides Beith and Kilwinning on its right bank, from Dunlop,
Stewarton and Irvine on its left, and falls into the Garnoek two miles from the
town of Irvine, and about 2Y~, in a direct line, from Irvine harbour. The upper
part of its course in the district is tame, becoming more picturesque after
reaching the ruins of Clonbeith and the wooded banks of Montgrenan. For a mile
above its junction with Garnock, it winds through the richly wooded
pleasuregrounds of Eglinton Castle.
(1874
In this name our Topographer has varied the spelling, as in his description
of the district it is written “Lugdurr”, and not without having authority,
as it so occurs in the retour of Thomas Cuninghame of Montgrenane, 17th
February, 1687 (Inquisitiones Quinquen). The termination, durr, is supposed to
be of Celtic or Scythian origin (Irving’s Nomen).
LHUNFARD
(i) heigh medow
This
is probably Langford, in the parish of Kilwinning. On 18th Nov, 1656, Margaret
Moreis is retoured heir of her guidsir, William Moreis, portioner of Langfurd in
the half of the 20s land of Langfurd, extending to ane lOs land of old extent
within the lordship. parichin and regalite of kilwinning and bailiary of
Cunynghame.
(1874
— The 20s land of old extent of “Lunfords” occurs with various other lands
in a charter, dated 1558, to Sir Neil Montgomerie of Lainshaw, and held blench
of the Earl of Eglinton. Langford now belongs to the Earl of Eglintoun and
Wintoun. On the map it appears as “Lamphard”).
(1989
This property is now a dwelling house belonging to Dr. Galbraith).
MONKCASTLE
a pretty fair building veill planted ye inheritance of Hamiltone Earl of
Abercorne.
This
property is in the parish of Kilwinning, and, of old, belonged to the Monastery.
On the approach of the Reformation it was aquired by James, Duke of Chatlerault,
by charter dated 20th July, 1552, by whom it was bestowed on Lord Claud
Hamilton, his third son, who at the early age of ten, was nominated Coinmendator
of the Abbey of Paisley in 1553. Being much in favour with King James, he was
created a peer; by the title of Lord Paisley, on 29th July, 1587. His son James,
was in 1604 created Earl of Abercorn, Baron of Paisley, Hamilton, Mountcastle
and Kilpatrick.
His
son James, the second Earl, was on 3rd May, 1621, retoured heir to Claud, Lord
Paisley, his grandfather, in the 8 merk land of old extent on Monkcastell, and 5
pund land of Dalgarven and others. On 29th November, 1648, James Duke of
Hamilton, was served heir of James Duke of Catellorotti Earl of Arran and Lord
of Paisley, his greatgrandfather, in the lands of Upper and Lower Monkcastle
and others. They are included in the retour of Hugh, Earl of Eglintoun, as heir
of Earl Alexander, his father, 7th May, 1661, though probably this was only the
right of superiority which would belong to the Earl as Lord of Erection of the
Monastery of Kilwinning. in June, 1673, Ann, Duchess of Hamilton, and Susanna,
Countess of Cassils, are served heirsportioners to James, Duke of Hamilton,
their father, in the lands as described in his retour. The Earl of Abercorn sold
lands to George Hay, who conveyed them to the Lairds of Dunlop and Pitcon, in
trust, for behoof of his creditors (M.D. 7046). They were aquired by John
Wallace, minister of Largs, whose son George sold them to Adam Cuninghame,
advocate, whose sister Jean, with consent of her husband, David Forrester of
Denovan, sold them in 1723 to Alexander Miller, merchant in Glasgow, whith whose
descendants they still remain.
A question about the superiority occurred so late as 1780, when it was found
that a right flowing from the Duke of Hamilton was preferable to one from the
Earl of Eglintoun.
(1989
Monkcastle was originally monastic property and covers 400 acres.
Monkridding
(as the name of this place is now written) is in the parish of Kilwinning. An
account of the Nivens occursin Rob. Ayrs., Fain, vol. iii., p. 253, to which may
be added the following notices from the Corn. Rec. of Glasgow. “Thomas Newin
of Monkridding” is a creditor in the testament of “Johne Watt of
Moscollooh” (Moseolheugh), March, 1610. “Niniane Neving, brother to the
“guidman of Monkredding”, is a debtor in the will of Agnes Cuninghame, wife
of Cuninghaine of Clonbeith, “and that as cautioner for Urnquhile John Dunlop
of “Auehenskeyth”, “an hundrith pund” (December, 1612).
Thomas
Neveine and Thomas, his son and heirapparent, occur in Brown’s Protho Buik, 1617 and 1619. “Thomas Nevin, fear of Monkridding, Niniane Nevin his
father, brother and Mr. Hew Nevin “his brothergermaine”, all witness the
testament of Neil Montgomerie in Kilwynning, March 1623. Thomas Neving of
Monkridding deceased in the month of April, 1651, and his testament is confirmed
on 7th February, 1652. This bears to be “faythfullie maid and gevin upe be
James Neving, second lauchfull sone, lauchfull creditour to the defunct as
assignay afterspeoifit viz, in the first in sua far as the said umquhile
Thomas Neving was justlie adebtit and awand to Hew Baillie in Kylwinning and
Anna Buntein his spouse the soume of thrie hundrith rnerkis contained in a bond
dated 11th December, 1647, in and to quilk the said Hew Baillie & maid the
said James Neving their lauchfull cessionar”, &c. The following items
occur in the Invantare:- “Item ane pair of spectacles sett with silver and
ane uther pair with home, and ane caise thiarto worth xl.s. Item ane greit byble
worth xl.s. Item ane greit psalme buike worth xxx.s. Item ane lesser psalme
buike pryce xiJ.s. Item ane greit buike of the acts of parliament worth vJ.lb.
xiiij.s and iiiJ.d. Item other thrie buiks of prieching sett out be Inglischmen
worth xxx.s. the piece. Item in the possessione of Hendrie Kelsoe in Kilwinning
and Geillis Neving his spous, ane hundrith pundis money of superplus of the
defunctis’ buirding, payit be him to thame, before hand, mair nor he received
buirding for fra thame”. “Their was awand to the defunct the tyme
foirsaid be the Earle of Eglintoun and his factouris for his pensione Jo lib”.
In
1698, the estate was sold to Hugh Cuninghame of Clonbeith, Writer to the Signet,
who was succeeded by his son, George Cuninghame of Monkridding. He married in
1714, Agnes, daughter of George Dallas of Parklie, representative of an ancient
respectable family in Linlithgowshire, by whom he had a son and three daughters.
His son George, in 1752 married Janet, daughter of John Gemmel of Towerlands, by
whom he had a son and four daughters. 1. Agnes, married to William Miller of
Monkcastle. 2. Catherine, married to the Rev. Thomas Brisbane, minister of
Dunlop. 3. Anne, married to the Rev. John Monteath, minister of Houston. 4.
Elizabeth, married to Harrison of the Excise Office, Edinburgh, without issue.
George Cuninghame was succeeded in 1786 by his son Ferguson, upon whose death,
in 1830, the estate was divided in three shares among the heirs of his sisters.
(1874
Of the family of George Cuninghame of Monkridding and Janet Gemmel, the son
Ferguson, as abovementioned, died unmarried. The eldest daughter, Agnes, who
married William Miller of Monkcastle, had issue William Alexander, &c
(see Art. “Moncastle”). The second, Catherine, married to the Rev. Thomas
Brisbane of Dunlop, had two sons, the survivor of whom, Thomas M.D., resided at
Woodhill, near Largs, and died unmarried. The third Anne, married the Rev. John
Monteath of Houston, son of the Rev. John of Monteath of Collellan and Houston,
and had three sons and three daughters. The sons were:- 1. John M.D., in the
Indian army, who died at Aurungabad; 2. George Cuninghame, a celebrated
physician of Glasgow, married Anne Colquhoun, eldest daughter of John Cuninghame
of Craigends, by whom he had no issue;
3.
James, writer in Glasgow, who married Anne Laurie, daughter of the Rev. Dr.
Knox, minister of Larbert. The daughters were:- Janet, married to the Rev.
Robert Douglas of Kilbarchan, second son of James Douglas, of Barloch,
Stirlingshire; Margaret, who died unmarried; and Anne, married to James
Carstairs, representative of Carstairs of Reres, in Fife.
The
Mansionhouse of Monkridding, with the garden and about six acres adjoining,
besides the equal share of the estate, fell to the heir of the eldest sister,
William Miller of Monkcastle, and is now the property of his two daughters, Mrs
Walnut and Mrs McAlister of Glenbar (Vide “Monkcastle”). Lyleston, the
portion of the second sister, Mrs Brisbane, on the death of her son Thomas, as
above, fell by special destination to Hugh King, writer in Kilwinning. Goldcraig,
the portion of the third sister, Mrs Monteat, to which her third son James, as
above, succeeded, was by him divided and sold, part to William Lang of Groatholm,
and the remainder to James and John Heggie. Zeilding in all ye ground yerof
Colles”.
In
the lands of Monkridding there are old coal wastes, connected with the limestone
series, from 21/h to 3 feet in thickness, which had been opened several hundred
years ago, and they extended over between 50 and 100 acres. This coalbed must
have been of great value in those days of defective machinery from the peculiar
position of the coal and lay of the land, as it was all wrought and water free,
and from old waste there is now a constant run of fine water. There is a great
extent of the lower seam yet to work, and the fuel produces a strong heat and is
well adapted for furnace purposes. It is being partially wrought, but will not
command a sale as household coal as long as the upper series of the coal strata
continues to be worked in the lands nearer the seacoast. It is supposed that
the Dalry, or lower series of coal and ironstone, will also be found in the
lands of Monkridding, but these have not yet been tested, and may be too deep to
be workable to profit (penes. Hugh King of Lyleston). Among the Blair papers
were found receipts for coal, from this locality, dated 200 years ago).
(1989
Monkredden estate was built nearly 300 years ago and has changed owners many
times. An addition was built in 1905 covering 700 acres and 102 feet above sea
level. Monkredden used to have a quarry but it is now disused. The new owner of
Monkredden in 1969 was Duncan McLeod).
MONGRYNEN
CASTLE is ane old strong Dunijon veill and plefantly planted ye inheritance of
Cuninghame Laird therof fone to the Abbot of Kilwinin quho wes brother to James
Earle of Glencairne.
The
only proprietor of this name, who appears in the public records, is Sir John
Ross, who was advocate to James III, and whom frequent notice occurs. On 20th
July, 1476, he appears before the Lords Auditors of Causes, as pursuer of an
action against William Somerville, son and heir of Umquhile Thomas Somerville,
for the sum of £4.00, conform to an obligation produced, for which he obtains
the decree. On 3rd July, 1483, he and Huchon Wallace of Newtoun are pursuers of
an action against Hector Stewart, for the wrongous spoliation, away taking, and
witholding from them of the tiends of Raith, Burnhouse and HalIng, of which the
pursuers were tacksmen. The defender did not appear, and decreet passed against
him. In the same year, a question came before the Lords Auditors relative to a
tack of three merks worth of the land of Cockilbie, and five merks’ worth of
the land of Blacklaw, within the Lordship of Stewartoun. David Lindsay and his
spouse, formerly wife of Umquhile Jenkin Stewart, produced a letter of Tack of
said lands under the King’s Privy Seal, and a special command by the king to
the Lords to desist from interfering therewith.
On
which Master Richard Lawson, procurator for John Ye Ros of Montgrenan, protested
that the desisting of the proceedings should not prejudice him, as he was ready
to follow his summons and show another letter of Tack of said lands under the
Privy Seal (see article “Blacklaw Hill”). He was regularly in Parliament as
one of the lesser Barons. He is named in the sederunt of 6th April, 1478. In
October, 1479, he is witness to the execution of a summons for treason against
John Ellem of Butterden, for holding the Castle of Dunbar against the King. He
is in Parliament, 11th April, 1481, and 27th June, 1483. On 7th July of that
year, he appears as Advocate of the King in a process for treason against Sir
James Liddale of Halkerstoun, which was followed by other similar processes
against William, Lord Crechtoun, and David Purves. On 6th May, 1485, he is
witness to a charter granted, at Edinburgh, by Catherine Alansone, daughter and
heiress of the late John Alansone, Burgess of Edinburgh, with consent of her
husband, Donald Mugy, in favour of Robert, Bishop of Glasgow, of a tenement in
Edinburgh, which grant she confirms, on the same day, before William,
Archbishop of St Andrews, and Cohn Earl of Argyle, Chancellor of Scotland. On
26th May, 1485, Sir John appears in a case against James Giffert of Sheniffhall,
on whom sentence of forfeiture is passed. On the rising of Parliament, 29th
January, 1487, he is names one of the Committee of Estates for advising all
matters that should occur until the meeting of Parliament in May.
In
the meantime, the rebellion, which had been concocting against James III, by his
son and his disaffected nobility, broke out into open war. The unhappy Monarch
was obliged to take the feild against the insurgents, and in this extremity he
was not deserted by his faithful advocate, who showed much bravery, and in a
skirmish at the bridge of Stirling, previous to the battle of Sauchie, had
endangered the life of the rebel Prince. The King fled from the conflict at
Sauchie, and being thrown from his horse, was much bruised and unable to move.
He was carried into a miller’s cottage, laid on a flockbed, and covered
with a coarse cloth. In this sad condition, he was basely murdered by a person
who was never discovered. This put an end to the war; and James IV., who thus
“waded through slaughter to a throne”, became King. After the ceremony of
his coronation, summonses of treason were raised against those leaders who had
appeared in arms against the Prince, the cheif object of whose councillors was
now to lay the odium of rebellion on those who had directed the measures of the
late king. Among others, a summons of treason was raised against Sir John Ross.
It was executed, with the usual solomnities by Carnick, Pursewant; and, to show
the state of the parties at the time, it is worthy of being noticed that the
witnesses to the edictal citation at the Cross of Irvine, were John of
Montgomery, brother to the Lord of Montgumry, John of Montgumery of Griffin,
Robert Fergushill of that ilk, and John of Fergushill. Sir John did not appear;
and on 14th October, the summons being called, Cohn, Earl of Argyle, the Lord
Chancellor, craved sentence, which was forwith pronounced, declaring that
John the Ross had forfeited to the king his life, lands, offices, goods,
moveable and immovable, and all others his possesions quatsomever he had within
the realm of Scotland, evermair to remain with the King, his heirs and
successors, for his treason and offences. It is said that Sir John’s estates
were conferred on Patrick Hume of Fastcastle, and that James Henderson of
Fordell was appointed advocate to the King. This forfeiture, if carried into
effect, must have been speedily recalled; for when Parliament met on 3rd
February, 1489, and which was numerously attended, Patrick Hume of Fastcastell
and John Ros were both present among the barons; and John Ros was elected one of
the Lords of Articles, while Fastcastell was not.
On
the 15th of the same month, they are both names Lords of the Secret Council,
“for the ostensious and furth putting of the King’s authoritie in the
administracioun of justice”. On 28th April, 1491, he is elected one of the
Lords Auditors of Causes, by the old title of Sir John Ros de Montgrenan, which
would imply that he was in possesion of his estate, and, at the rising of
Parlaiment, he is so styled and named in the Committee of Estates for general
buisiness.
That
he was in possesion of the manor of Montgrenan, appears from a case on 11th
February, 1492, where William and George Reoch were ordained to pay him £5.00
for a pan of copper, and 10 merks for certain paniel creels and rubbouris (small
casks for wine), quilk gudis were spulzeit and taken, be the said persons, out
of the place of Montgrenan, as was sufficiently proved before the Lords.
Sir
John was regular in his attendance as on of the Lords of Council, and on 2nd
February, 1492, at the rising of the Court, the three following summonses, at
his instance, were continued to 8th May:— 1st, against John Wallace of Craigy;
2nd, against Constantine Dunlop of that ilk, and Hector Stewart of the Rais; and
3rd, against John Hardgrip, at Strathaven. He does not appear in the sedrunts
until 10th November, 1495, when he is present at two diets; and after this date
his name does not occur in the Records.
It
is said that the lands of Montgrenan passed to the Monastery of Kilwinning, but
in what manner is not known, and cannot be stated with accuracy if the ancient
title deeds are not preserved, and while the Chartulary of Kilwinning can no
longer be appealed to. It appears that on 24th January, 1551, Robert Cunynghame
of Montgrenan, and James Cunynghame of Ross, became cautioners for the
appearance of Alexander and William Galbraith, and others, to answer to the
charge of resetting William Cunynghame of Carneferne, who was a rebel, and lying
at the horn (Pit., vol. i. P.358). Whether this is the first of the Cunynghames
of Montgrenan is not known. The commonly received account is that Alexander
Cunynghame, third son of Alexander the fifth Earl of Glencairn, was nominated
Commendator of the Monastery, and obtained a grant of Montgrenan to himself and
Jean Blair, his wife, which was confirmed by the Crown, 2nd March, 1582-3
(Woods peerage, vol. i. p.636). He was involved in the long continued feud
between the Montgomeries and Cuninghames, and was charged as being accessory to
the murder of Hugh, fourth Earl of Eglintoun, on 18th April, 1586, and was
waylaid, and shot at his own gate at Montgrenan on 31st August, 1608. He married
Marion Douglas, by whom he had two sons and two daughters. he died at Montgrenan
in February, 1616, and his testament is confirmed 1st June following.
It
bears “At the burght of Irwein the day of October, 1615, the
quilk day the said Mr James makes his testament, &c. In the first place the
said Mr James hes maid James, Jean and Grizell Conynghams his lauchful bairnes
his only ex. Lykeas also has nominat his weil belovit spous Marion Douglas
tutrix and to Alexander Cuynghame his eldest son and appeirand air quho hes
accepted the said office of tutorie upone hit’. And in caise of Marioun
Douglas hir deceis he hes nominat the rigcht honorable Bryce Blair of that ilk
and Alexander Cunynghame writer in Edinburgh to be conjunct tutouris to his said
bairnes”. Marioun Douglas, after her husbands’ decease, married Johne
Sempill of Aikenbar.
Jean
Blair, Lady Montgrenan, died in January, 1621. Her testament is confirmed 6th
March following. It contains, inter alia “Item, thair was awand be the
defunct to Mr Robert Stewart hir son in law the soume of ane thousand merkis of
tocherguid with hir dochter Jean, conform to hir obligation quherof sche
declarit that he hes his awin hand to be allowit in the said soume twa zeiris
dewtie of hit’ lyfrent land callit the Kirktoune of Cumrae”.
The
following legacie is granted:- “She nominates William Cunynghame her son her
exeor. Item, she declares that she has disponit be way of contract and factorie
to the said William her sone the haul fermes and dewties addittit be the
tennants of hit’ lyfrent landis within the isles of Bute and Inchmarnock and
that for his releif and releif of his oy, the laird of Montgrenan, of the sowme
of nyntien hundrith merkis... Item she declaris that the haill tocher promeised
be hir with Deame Grissall Cuningham spous to Sir Thomas Boyd of Bollinshaw is
payit”. This lady had been previously married to Sir john Stewart of Bute, who
died in 1602. It has been stated that Marion Douglas, Lady Montgrenan, married,
second, John Semple of Aikinbar who was afterwards designed of Stannieflatt. He
died at Dumbartone in May, 1653; testament confirmed 16th June, 1654. The
following curious particulars occur in the inventory:- “Item, there was
awand to the defunct the tyme of his deceis be the tennants of Montgrenae of
Kylwinning and uthers in Cunynghame of umquhil spous hit’ lyfrent landis, ane
pairt of their dewtie for the cropt 1649; all the cropt 1650, and half of the
cropt 1651. Item, be the estaites of this kingdome for the keiping and
furnisching of the castle of Dumbatone and for prisoners keiping and uther
charges as his accompts beiris, the sowme of xv. ix. lxxxviij punds, with annual
rent fra Lambas, 1649. Item, be the Provost, baillies, and counsell of
Dumbartane
for his chairges and debursments in thair affairs as thair commissioner to
Parliamentis and uther meittings, as his accomptis given in to thame diverse
tymes beiris, the sowme of. Item, be Sir Charles Erskine of Avay,
Knycht, the sowme of two thousand and four hundreth merkis for guidis geir
ammunitione and uther things detainet wrangouslie be him fra the defunct at his
randering to him of the said Castle, within the same, as his bill given into
Parliament against him particularlie beiris”. The following legacy in the will
is also of interest:- “At Dumbartone the xxi day of May 1653. The quhilk day
I John Semple of Stonieflatt being seik in body do hereby make my latter will
and first I nominat William Semple my youngest sone my ex., and he to use the
counsaille and advyse of the Laird of Fulwoode and Walkinshaw, John Semple of
Cloisse writer in Edinburgh and Mr Henrie Semple his brother; Item, I leive in
Legacie to witt of the schoole of Dumbartone, my aires and successours being
herafter free of all uther burden thairof, ane hundrith merkis Scots money;
Item, to the schoole of Kilwinning of the first and readiest of the dewties
awand to me in Montgrenan within that parochine the sowme of fourtie punds
money. To my nephew Mr William Semple the sowme of ane hundrith merkis money. To
my uther nephew James Semple the sowme of fourtie punds. To my neice Margaret
Buntein ane boll of meill. To Geills Semple relict of umquhil Mr Andro Semple my
brother the sowme of arie hundrith merkis. To Isobel Naper sister to John Naper
of Ballinkinraine two furlattis meill”.
On
30th March, 1632, Alexander Cuninghame of Montgrenan was retoured heir of his
grandmother, Jean Blair, in much valuable property in Kilwinning and Beith. He
was succeeded by his son, Thomas, who was on 13th June, 1645, was retoured heir
of his father, Alexander, and his grandfather, James, in various properties; and
on 15th May, 1656, as heir of his father, in the 10 merk land of Montgrenan. He
was succeeded by his son, Thomas Cuninghame, who was retoured heir to his father
in several lands, on 16th September, 1674. He was attached to the cause of
religious liberty, and having been at Bothwell, in 1679, was, on 8th January,
1683, tried for treason and rebellion. He admitted that he and the Laird of
Cuninghame Bedland, James Edminstone, and others, went on the Saturday before
the engagement to HamiltonMuir, and joined the rebels at Bothwell Bridge,
that he had a horse, pistols and a sword, and that he fled with them.
He
begged that the Judges might intercede with his Majesty for his pardon, and
declared himself willing to take test. He was found guilty, and, on the 15th,
sentence was passed that upon the first Wednesday of April, then next, he should
be executed as a traitor, and demeaned at the Cross of Edinburgh and his estates
forfeited. His life was spared, but the estate, was given to
Lieutenant General Douglass. The unfortunate owner, having been in much
distress, urged Hugh Stevenston, Clerk to the Privy Council, to purchase the
estate, to the sale of which the donator consented, having taken a composition
for his right. In 1690, an Act was passed, rescinding the forefaultures and
fines since the year 1665, in which Thomas Cuninghame of Montgrenan was
included. This alarmed the purchaser, who thought that the including of the
Laird of Montgrenan in the Act might entitle him to challenge and repudiate the
sale, though it does not appear that this had been threatened. Hugh Stevenson
presented a petition to the Lord Commissioner and the estates of Parliament,
craving that there should be an exception in th Act as to the lands of
Montgrenan. On 3rd July, 1690, Parliament remitted the matter to the Commission,
nominated in the General Act Rescissory to hear parties, and report to next
meeting (Acts of Parliament, vol. i. p.664) “All the strait lay in making
it appear that the money was paid for that cause, the conveyance being so dark.
The Lords before answer, allowed probation to be taken of all circumstances, and
presumptions founded on, as to the manner of the payment”.
1874
Robert Robertson Glasgow of Montgrenan, died in 1860 and was succeeded by
his eldest son, Robert Bruce Robertson Glasgow of Montgrenan, who married
Deborah Louisa Grace, second daughter of Simon George Purdon of Tinerana, County
Clare, Ireland, and has issue Robert Purdon, born 1868; Charles Ponsonby,
Lilias Mary and Cohn Campbell. On the map it occurs as “Mengrinen).
1989
The railway station is now a private house with two other houses nearby Janburrow and Burnbrae. In the late 1800’s Montgreenan Estate was the property
of Sir James Bell who used to collect old road milestones, some of which can
still be seen in the grounds. During the 1st World War a 12 bed hospital at
Montgreenan treated over 500 wounded. After the 2nd World War Montgreenan was
taken over by Lord Weir of Cathcart. Lady Weir died in Canada in 1972 and the
mansion house was soon converted into a luxury hotel, which it still is today.
There are several private houses in the estate and the stable block is being
renovated.
POTTERTOUNE
is ye Laird of Mongrynans
Montgomerie
Cuninghame of Corshjll and Kirktonholme, the present baronet
STEINSTONE
belongs to Johne Montgomerie
This
was probably a farm in the barony of Stevenstoun, but it has not been found as a
separate property therm.
1874
“Steinstone” is most probably an error of transcription for Smithstone,
a property in the parish of Kilwinning, which was for some time possesed by a
cadet of the Eghintoun family. James Montgomerie of Smithstone (Circa 1500) was
second son of Alexander, third Lord Montgomerie, by Catherine, daughter of
Gilbert, Lord Kennedy (Ayrs. Fain., Vol.11., p.311). Hugh Montgomerie of
Smithstone, Bailie of Kilwinning, married Agnes, second daughter of John
Craufurd of Craufurdland, by Margaret, daughter of John Blair of that Ilk, circa
1560 (lb., Vol. I., p.194). Robert Montgomerie of Smithstone, married Elizabeth,
second daughter of Robert Boyd of Portincross (Art. “Portincross Castle”).
In the valuation of Cuninghame (App. No I), in the parish of Kilwinning, is
rated “Robert Montgomerie of Sinithstone, £217.00”. Part of Smithstone,
called SmithstoneGarven, belonged to Dunlop of Auchenskeith in 1629, and soon
after this date the entire property passed from the Mont gomeries, and
appears divided into “Over Smeithstoun”, which belonged to Robert Smythe in
1672;
“Midell
Smeithstoun”, which belonged to ALexander Cunynghame of Montgrennane in 1632;
and “Wester Smythstoune”, which belonged to John Miller, as heir of his
father John, in 1662 (vide Retours). The latter portion, on which the modern
mansion—house is situated, was aquired from John Miller in 1690, by Thomas
MacGowan, Provost of Irvine, whose descendants it continued down to 1820, when
Thomas MacGowan was propreitor (Rob.,Cun., pp.198—9). Thomas MacGowan of
Smithston was succeeded by his son Thomas, Lieut. H..E.I.C.S., who, within the
last twenty years, sold Smithston to the present proprietor, William Stewart of
St Fillans, in the parish of Largs. Neither of the names occur on the map).
(1989
The 19th century house has had many owners this century including Mr
Jackson, Colonel Knox and George Orr from 1965 to 1970. The house was then
converted into a seminor building for young Roman Catholic priests).